Nature 2, BBB Method and KIS

[CarlD]

If there's a way to remove the Nature2 I would do so. You do NOT want to leave the cartridge in, but they've shafted you so you have no choice but to use one, unless you redo your plumbing (probably not hard) to by-pass it or remove it.

With a new masonry pool, generally, Tri-Chlor tabs can work very well. Such pools tend to have a rising pH as they cure, and Tri-Chlor is very acidic so it can offset some of that. Also, new water needs a certain level of CYA (Stabilizer) and Tri-Chlor adds 6ppm of the CYA for ever 10ppm of chlorine.

Being in Texas, you may WELL want to run your pool with a CYA of 80. That's generally high, and your recommended FC level is between 5 and 10 ppm, but it may well keep you from constantly losing chlorine and risking an algae bloom.

The numbers your builder said of an FC of 1 with a CYA of 30-50, even with a Nature2, is a sure-fire way to get an algae bloom--in a hot place like Texas.

I'm also surprised at the builder's rec of 200-250 for CH. Normally, 200-400 is the recommended range for a masonry pool, with a TA range of 80-120. (However, with a new pool curing and their tendency to increase in pH, a lower TA would be called for to buffer that--that's why his rec pH is to the low side.)

Phosphates don't cause algae--they feed it. If you don't have algae, NO amount of phosphates will cause it. In fact, in all the years I've been here there have been maybe 5 cases where phosphate remover was appropriate.

[welshpoolgirl]

Hi Carl - thanks for the speedy & informative reply. So to summarize - 1. Remove Nature2 cartridge if poss to eliminate risk of staining / adding any more copper/silver to water. 2. Keep using Tri-Chlor tabs instead of trying to switch to bleach. 3. Possibly let CYA go up as high as 80 (still within normal according to pool suppliers). 4. Try to maintain TC / FC at 5-10 in order to prevent algae?

Any thoughts on whether I should be adding Magenta Stuff every 3 months as a preventative? Not sure of what our fill water normally has in it or if the installer just recommended that because of the Nature2 system.

[Watermom]

Not sure what Magenta stuff is ---- I've never heard of it ---- which leads me to believe that the answer is NO, you should not add it!

Personally, I would run my pool with CYA of 50 for awhile before deciding to up it to 80. CYA is easy to increase, difficult to lower. Just my opinion.

Welcome to the Pool Forum!

[CarlD]

WPG,
FYI, sometimes Watermom and I, or some of the others on the support team, "gang up" in our advice. iOW we play tag team, adding on to what the last person said or didn't say. It is usually not contradictory, but is more info.

So when Watermom says don't add the magenta stuff, we speak with one voice on that.

[chem geek]

Jack's Magic Magenta Stuff is a metal sequestrant (specifically an acrylic acid copolymer). The reason the pool installer recommended it is because you are using Nature[sup]2[/sup] which puts metal ions into the pool that can stain pool surfaces (especially plaster surfaces). Of course, the better approach is not to use the Nature[sup]2[/sup] in the first place since you don't need it. The reason the pool installer put that system in is that you are using Trichlor tabs where continued use of them builds up CYA which reduces chlorine effectiveness unless you raise the FC level as the CYA level rises. So he basically was adding the Nature[sup]2[/sup] to provide a copper ion algaecide. Certainly not a KISS method as it is more complicated and more expensive.

[CarlD]

Well put, Richard!

The far cheaper alternative, and more effective, too (to using the N2 + Jack's Magic), is to use your K-2006 test kit to test your CYA level weekly, and check your FC and pH level daily. A simple OTO/Phenol kit will make doing that easier than the K-2006, and you can run the FC, CC, pH, TA, CH and CYA tests weekly using the K-2006.

Then, when your CYA hits your target level, you stop the tablets, and begin using bleach or liquid chlorine to maintain your FC levels at the range recommended in the Best Guess table.
To control rising pH (if you still have it), you ca use Muriatic Acid, available at most hardware stores, or generic Dry Acid, sold at pool stores, K-Mart, WalMart and, I think CostCo.

Once your pool is cured, the rising pH should end.

You won't have metals, your pool will be clean, and you'll save beaucoup bucks.

[welshpoolgirl]

To ChemGeek & CarlD and WaterMom - Thank you sooooo much for your advice. It really makes sense and it is exactly the info I was looking for / hoping to confirm. My K-2006 kit has been shipped & I should receive this week.

Out of curiosity - since we are in Texas & due to the climate/extended pool season - would it be reasonable to consider using tri-chlor tabs in the summer and liquid bleach in the winter to help counteract rising CYA? And also out of curiosity, the Magenta Stuff -- if it helps prevent the stains from metals, what kind of residual stuff would be left over in the water & would it eventually dissipate like chlorine or would it stick around like other particles? And can testing the water somehow pick that stuff up? Just wondering since I know the pool installer dumped an entire container of the stuff in the pool within a week of the fill.