We can also explain how to make those confusing tests much simpler.
Oh, don't bother with the Acid Demand or Base Demand tests. You (and we) hardly ever need them. Personally, I've never needed them in 15 years of pool ownership.
We can also explain how to make those confusing tests much simpler.
Oh, don't bother with the Acid Demand or Base Demand tests. You (and we) hardly ever need them. Personally, I've never needed them in 15 years of pool ownership.
Carl
Ok final got to use the k 2006 here are my results:
FC= 1 ppm
CC= .5ppm
PH= +8.0
TA= 30 ppm
CH= 80 ppm
CYA= dot never did disappered.
So after reading the forums I'm guessing them numbers aren't good. So where should I start.?
Last edited by no clue; 09-01-2014 at 08:27 PM.
I have a 21k saltwater pool with 1 skimmer, 2 bottom drains, 4 returns.
Pentair 1 hp single speed superflo pump
Pentair sd80 sandfilter
Pentair ultr a temp heat pump
Pentair intelclor40.
OK. There's a relationship between FC and CYA. With NO CYA, 1ppm of FC will be pretty effective......but it will break down in sunshine in as little as 15 minutes.
Different levels of CYA require appropriate levels of FC...see the "Best Guess Table"
http://poolsolutions.com/gd/best-gue...ine-chart.html
Your pH is too high. You'll need to either add Muriatic Acid or Dry Acid to lower it down to the 7.2-7.8 range.
TECHNICALLY, your T/A is too low...but since your pH is very high I wouldn't even ATTEMPT to adjust it unless you find pH keeps trending low (it's now too high).
CH is FINE! You have a vinyl pool so low CH isn't a problem. Do NOT be talked into adding Calcium to increase it.
All in all, your numbers aren't as bad as you thought.
Carl
Ok thanks carl. Pool was just installed 3 weeks ago, the installers put 1 gallon of Champion pool shock in it X2 the first week. Thursday of last week o put 1/2 gallon of tranchem muriatic acid in it. Should I put the rest in tonight?
I don't know what Champion pool shock is, but I'm guessing it's calcium hypochlorite--Cal-hypo, which tends to push pH up, since your pH is high.
However, if it was di-chlor, that tends to be a bit acidic (which you need) and adds CYA, which you also need.
Is Tranchem a brand of Muriatic Acid? Regular, ordinary Muriatic acid is what you need, not the "green" or fumeless. Personally, I'd fill a 5 gallon bucket with pool water most of the way, add the acid to that (SLOWLY!), and then add that to the pool. Wear gloves, eye protection, long clothes and do NOT breath the fumes!
Can you find out what the Champion stuff is? ("Shock" is misused by pool chem companies to hide the ingredients and make it sound "special". It's a verb meaning to raise your pool's chlorine to high levels, not a noun. What they call "shock" is merely chlorine, usually Cal-Hypo, Di-chlor or extra-strength bleach--"Liquid Shock")
Carl
I will look at the champion brand shock when I get home tonight.Transchem is the brand of the muriatic acid bought at the hardware store. It is Judy a regular muriatic acid.
The champion brand "pool" shock list the ingredients as:
12.5% sodium hypochlorite
Inert ingredients 87.5%
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