What to convert to a SWG...should I do it?

[Kevinkaye]

Question about converting pool
A little about myself, I am a first time pool owner and have limited knowledge about pools. For the past two years, I have been adding tablets and liquid chlorine (when needed) to keep the pool water good. I keep my chlorine levels rather high to prevent algae growth. I also try to keep all my other chemicals inline as well. With all that said, I really want to convert my pool to a saltwater pool. A little about the pool, it is 16,275 gallons with no hot tub. Based on my research, I think I want the hayword SWG with the T15 Cell. I choose the T15, because I am hopping it will last longer than the smaller cells. Is this a fair assumption keeping in mind I will clean each of the cells the same and according to the manufacturer.

One last thought, I want to switch to a SWG system because I don't want to worry about adding tablets and liquid chlorine. I want the softer water feeling and my want my kids to not come out of the pool with burning eyes and smelling like a pool store.

Knowing all this, am I making the right decision?

[Watermom]

Hi and welcome to the Pool Forum!

This is entirely an opinion question. But, just a few comments for you.

You do realize that saltwater pools are still chlorine pools, right?

Also, you still will at times have to add chlorine manually. It is best not to use your unit to superchlorinate as it shortens the life of the cell. Best to manually add chlorine anytime you need to shock the pool.

It is always good to get an over-sized unit as that will give you longer use of it.

CarlD, another of the moderators, added a SWCG to his pool a year or so ago. Hopefully, he will chime in here and add some more information for you.

[CarlD]

hi Kevin and welcome to our forum!

I have read your post several times and have some thoughts that you may not care for, but I am inferring some things from your story.

I DO have an SWCG, an Autopilot that is "oversized for my pool for the same reasons as you. I am at the end of my second season with it, after many years of using the BBB system. Guess what? I STILL use the BBB system!

I suspect you have been struggling, not using a good test kit like the Taylor K-2006, and possibly don't have a stabilizer test reading. Why? Because pool care shouldn't be hard, time-consuming or expensive. Plus it should not take up your psychic energy either.

I think you are making an expensive mistake, hoping it will solve problems, that can more easily and cheaply solved by knowledge and testing. Then, when you are comfortable with BBB, that's the time to consider an SWCG.

You can always add an SWCG later.

If you want the softness, just add salt.

[Kevinkaye]

Carl,

Thank for your your reply. Just as an FYI, I do have the Taylor test kit you mention and check my pool chemicals very regularly. I also understand that a SWG pool is a chlorinated pool. So to say I am hoping to solve a problem with adding a SWG is not true...fortunately I don't think I have a problem . So, that is why I posted the question...am I creating a problem where I currently don't have one?

I do appreciate your honesty and understand that you could only make assumptions based on the lack of information that I provided.

The pool is an IG concrete pool. Based on all that info, would you still advise against switch to a SWG?

[kelemvor]

I'm a big fan of my Hayward SWCG with the T-15 cell. I just replaced the cell last week after it bit the dust. I think SWCG are great if you don't have a metal above ground pool. Other metals such as rails or a heater can also be a potential problem due to increased corrosion.

Having said that, my pool has a heater with a regular copper heat exchanger and things are working well.

You still need to stay on top of chemical levels but you can get away with less frequent testing and adjustments. Once you get things dialed in and get to "know" your system. You'll find you need to add acid fairly frequently to keep pH in check. More frequent small doses are best. I also have a small leak and I have to add salt fairly regularly. Even if you don't have a leak, if you get a lot of splashout due to parties or kids you'll be adding salt regularly. I end up adding a $10 ish bag of salt every couple months. I probably go through 4-6 gallons of muriatic acid in a year.

Also, your swcg will call for about 90ppm CYA. I think that's what the hayward unit wants if I remember right. If you're losing salt due to splashout or leaks you'll also be adding Cyanuric acid. That stuff is a good bit more expensive than salt.

I buy acid by the case, it keeps pretty well in the right conditions - outdoor shaded area.

If you do manage to let your chlorine level get low, you'll want to shock with regular liquid chlorine rather than using "super chlorinate" on your SWCG. That part's not a big deal, no special consideration to make.


SWCG probably won't save you money. It could very well cost more than BBB would have. You get convenience out of it. In my opinion it's a huge time saver. You do avoid that chlorine "smell" to a large degree because your pool stays properly sanitized. The smell comes from combined chlorine. You don't end up with a lot of combined chlorine because algae never gets a chance to bloom.


My cell is oversized, 40k cell on a 12k gallon pool. I'm not sure exactly how old the cell was since it came with the house. It looked very old - labeled goldline (hayward bought goldline some years ago). I'd have to guess that the cell lasted significantly longer than the rated lifespan. I had the cell for 3 years. I wouldn't be surprised to find it was 6 years old.


Anyway, the only potential problems I see are the metal concerns I mentioned and possible scaling issues if you don't stay on top of pH. If the cost is not a roadblock and you don't have metals I would get a swcg and enjoy a less frequent maintenance schedule.


Get a Taylor K-1766 Salt test kit to compliment your 2006. You don't use it super frequently but it's a useful tool nonetheless.

[CarlD]

Carl,

Thank for your your reply. Just as an FYI, I do have the Taylor test kit you mention and check my pool chemicals very regularly. I also understand that a SWG pool is a chlorinated pool. So to say I am hoping to solve a problem with adding a SWG is not true...fortunately I don't think I have a problem . So, that is why I posted the question...am I creating a problem where I currently don't have one?

I do appreciate your honesty and understand that you could only make assumptions based on the lack of information that I provided.

The pool is an IG concrete pool. Based on all that info, would you still advise against switch to a SWG?

I don't think SWCGs are a bad idea at all. I love mine. It was just that from the information you originally gave me, it sounded like you were getting one for all the wrong reasons.

Again, if you're finding that adding chemicals is a time-consuming pain, I'd guess you need to re-evaluate how and what you are doing. I often advise those who are new to the BBB method to test chlorine and pH every day.
Even if you only use a simple OTO kit to do so (but I like to search for the ones that go to 5ppm, not 3ppm.) you'll have a great idea of what's going on in your pool, every day. You'll know to add a little chlorine or acid or borax every day. If it takes 5 minutes, you're dawdling!

Once a week run the full suite of tests in the K-2006 (except the acid and base demand tests. 99% of the time they are a waste of time). Then worry about T/A, CH and CYA.

Kelemvor's experience is fairly typical but mine is different. I fully expected to have to add acid to my pool all the time due to the common pH rising effect many experience. Never had that problem at all! My Autopilot recommends that CYA be between 60 and 80, and that salt be at 3000--but it can handle salt levels much higher, up to 35,000! It's got more programming possibilities than I can handle--it can switch the pump on and off, run an acid feeder as needed etc. I don't use any of that, merely have it plugged in next to my pump and both run off the basement timer.

What is tricky and I still haven't mastered is figuring out, by trial and error, what the ideal chlorine generation is. It's indicated as a %, but doesn't test or know how much is in the water. That's why you have to test. Just to make it interesting, despite your setting the %, it varies with the water temperature! (BTW, the Autopilot has the best and most accurate water thermometer I've ever had. I don't bother hanging one over the side anymore).

Now I'm not saying that the Autopilot is better than the Hayward. I have no experience with the Hayward SWCG, though I have a Hayward pump and filter. I gather it's supposed to be a good one, and, I think, Pentair''s is supposed be really troublesome. (when it comes to in-line chlorinators, Ben swears by Pentair..and swears AT Hayward! ).

Will it save you money vs BBB using bleach/liquid chlorine? No. Absolutely not. You are in Florida, and you'll probably keep your pool open 9 months to 12 months a year, where, in NJ, my pool is generally open for 4 months--May thru August, occasionally half of September. But if I spend (or spent prior to my SWCG) $100/season on chlorine that was a lot. Since the cell is usually good for about 5 seasons (here) and costs about $500, even THAT costs more--because I still have to use SOME chlorine. And that doesn't figure in amortizing the initial cost of the system, not including labor (I saved a ton doing all the work myself) of $1000-$1500.

The only way it will save you money is if you have a pool service and can cancel it as a result! (LOL!)

[Kevinkaye]

So I have decided to switch to a SWG. Now the question is, do I go with the AQR9 which does 25k gallons or the AQR15 that does 40k gallons. The price difference is only about 100 dollars. My pool is 16,275 gallons.

[CarlD]

For that, the SWCG experts here have to advise you.

[Kevinkaye]

Ok. Thanks. It seems when I log in I only have the visibility of the two forums. How do I get to post in the SWG forum?

[kelemvor]

Get the bigger unit for sure. SWCG output is adjustable. With a larger cell, you'll turn the cell output to a lower level. The net result is that the larger cell will last you considerably longer. Regardless of the cell size you select, you're going to have to tweak that adjustment for your pool.

There is a point where a cell can be too big, but a 40k rated cell on a 16k gallon pool will be no problem. I run a 40k rated cell on my 12k gallon pool.

The only positive about the smaller cell is the smaller price.