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Thread: What to convert to a SWG...should I do it?

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  1. #1
    CarlD's Avatar
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    Default Re: What to convert to a SWG...should I do it?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevinkaye View Post
    Carl,

    Thank for your your reply. Just as an FYI, I do have the Taylor test kit you mention and check my pool chemicals very regularly. I also understand that a SWG pool is a chlorinated pool. So to say I am hoping to solve a problem with adding a SWG is not true...fortunately I don't think I have a problem . So, that is why I posted the question...am I creating a problem where I currently don't have one?

    I do appreciate your honesty and understand that you could only make assumptions based on the lack of information that I provided.

    The pool is an IG concrete pool. Based on all that info, would you still advise against switch to a SWG?
    I don't think SWCGs are a bad idea at all. I love mine. It was just that from the information you originally gave me, it sounded like you were getting one for all the wrong reasons.

    Again, if you're finding that adding chemicals is a time-consuming pain, I'd guess you need to re-evaluate how and what you are doing. I often advise those who are new to the BBB method to test chlorine and pH every day.
    Even if you only use a simple OTO kit to do so (but I like to search for the ones that go to 5ppm, not 3ppm.) you'll have a great idea of what's going on in your pool, every day. You'll know to add a little chlorine or acid or borax every day. If it takes 5 minutes, you're dawdling!

    Once a week run the full suite of tests in the K-2006 (except the acid and base demand tests. 99% of the time they are a waste of time). Then worry about T/A, CH and CYA.

    Kelemvor's experience is fairly typical but mine is different. I fully expected to have to add acid to my pool all the time due to the common pH rising effect many experience. Never had that problem at all! My Autopilot recommends that CYA be between 60 and 80, and that salt be at 3000--but it can handle salt levels much higher, up to 35,000! It's got more programming possibilities than I can handle--it can switch the pump on and off, run an acid feeder as needed etc. I don't use any of that, merely have it plugged in next to my pump and both run off the basement timer.

    What is tricky and I still haven't mastered is figuring out, by trial and error, what the ideal chlorine generation is. It's indicated as a %, but doesn't test or know how much is in the water. That's why you have to test. Just to make it interesting, despite your setting the %, it varies with the water temperature! (BTW, the Autopilot has the best and most accurate water thermometer I've ever had. I don't bother hanging one over the side anymore).

    Now I'm not saying that the Autopilot is better than the Hayward. I have no experience with the Hayward SWCG, though I have a Hayward pump and filter. I gather it's supposed to be a good one, and, I think, Pentair''s is supposed be really troublesome. (when it comes to in-line chlorinators, Ben swears by Pentair..and swears AT Hayward! ).

    Will it save you money vs BBB using bleach/liquid chlorine? No. Absolutely not. You are in Florida, and you'll probably keep your pool open 9 months to 12 months a year, where, in NJ, my pool is generally open for 4 months--May thru August, occasionally half of September. But if I spend (or spent prior to my SWCG) $100/season on chlorine that was a lot. Since the cell is usually good for about 5 seasons (here) and costs about $500, even THAT costs more--because I still have to use SOME chlorine. And that doesn't figure in amortizing the initial cost of the system, not including labor (I saved a ton doing all the work myself) of $1000-$1500.

    The only way it will save you money is if you have a pool service and can cancel it as a result! (LOL!)
    Carl

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    Default Re: What to convert to a SWG...should I do it?

    So I have decided to switch to a SWG. Now the question is, do I go with the AQR9 which does 25k gallons or the AQR15 that does 40k gallons. The price difference is only about 100 dollars. My pool is 16,275 gallons.

  3. #3
    CarlD's Avatar
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    Default Re: What to convert to a SWG...should I do it?

    For that, the SWCG experts here have to advise you.
    Carl

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    Default Re: What to convert to a SWG...should I do it?

    Ok. Thanks. It seems when I log in I only have the visibility of the two forums. How do I get to post in the SWG forum?

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    Default Re: What to convert to a SWG...should I do it?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevinkaye View Post
    Ok. Thanks. It seems when I log in I only have the visibility of the two forums. How do I get to post in the SWG forum?
    As soon as your registration is completed, PoolDoc will move your post to the SWCG section of the forum. He had a death in the family a week ago when his father passed away so has been away from the forum for several days. He is now back but is swamped with all of the things that piled up in his absence so it may be a bit til he gets to your thread. We appreciate your patience during this time. Thanks!

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    Default Re: What to convert to a SWG...should I do it?

    You can always read all the other forums when you are not logged in.
    12'x24' oval 7.7K gal AG vinyl pool; ; Hayward S270T sand filter; Hayward EcoStar SP3400VSP pump; hrs; K-2006; PF:16

  7. #7
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    Default Re: What to convert to a SWG...should I do it?

    Get the bigger unit for sure. SWCG output is adjustable. With a larger cell, you'll turn the cell output to a lower level. The net result is that the larger cell will last you considerably longer. Regardless of the cell size you select, you're going to have to tweak that adjustment for your pool.

    There is a point where a cell can be too big, but a 40k rated cell on a 16k gallon pool will be no problem. I run a 40k rated cell on my 12k gallon pool.

    The only positive about the smaller cell is the smaller price.
    rectangle 11.5K gal IG concrete pool;; 125sf cartridge filter; 2hp 1 speed pump; K-2006, k-1766; PF:10

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