OK, since you have your K-2006, let's go over how to test for FC. I know this may be redundant but for those of us who have done the FAS-DPD testing for a decade or more it may help to review:
1) Rinse the test tube.
2) Point the tube opening DOWN and push it down about a foot under the water, then invert it so it fills BELOW the surface
3) Pour off water until it is at the 10ml line.
4) Add one scoop of DPD powder. The water should turn pink or even red. If it does, that's enough.
5) Add one drop of the 0871 reagent and swirl. Each drop represents .5ppm of Free Chlorine (FC). 2 drops=1ppm, 5 drops=2.5ppm, etc.
6) When the water goes clear, that's the last drop to add. I like to be certain so I put the tube on something white. If there's a tinge of pink I add one more drop.
7) Your count of drops gives you your FC level.
CC (Combined Chloramines):
8) To the SAME tube above, now add 5 drops of 0003 and swirl.
9) If there is NO pink tinge at all, you have 0 CC--that's good.
10) If there is any pink or red, keep adding the 0871 drops as before, but start the count from 0 again. 1 drop is .5ppm of CC. Do remember that if one drop is all it takes to clear the tube, your CC is .5 or LESS--it could be .2 or .4ppm. Usually, a CC of .5 is nothing to worry about.
pH is fine.
TA is high but for now, especially with your CH of 170, absolutely nothing to worry about.
CYA is low. Are you sure you ran the test correctly? Things to remember:
a) equal amounts of pool water and reagent 0013.
b) shake for at least 30 seconds.
c) hold the tube at waist level when you add the liquid.
d) Pour the liquid BACK into the squeeze bottle, then add it to the tube again to check
e) You can do d) several times over with the same liquid until you are sure of your reading.
Once you get your water clear, you can worry about lowering your T/A to the recommended 80-100 level, raising your CH over 200ppm (you have a gunite pool so 200-400 is recommended), and getting your CYA level up to AT LEAST 30ppm.
FYI: Di-Chlor powder adds CYA to your water--for every 10ppm of FC it adds, it also add about 9 or 10ppm of CYA. Tri-Chlor tabs add about 6ppm of CYA for every 10ppm of FC, but also are VERY acidic--which may hel your T/A adjustment later (see the next paragraph).
WHEN you are ready to lower T/A, you'll lower pH to 7.0-7.1 (you have a touch more wiggle room on the minimum than a vinyl pool, but 6.9 should be your absolute minimum), then aerate your water to raise pH back up. You'll keep doing this until T/A is in the 80-120 range. Aeration can come from a sprayer, kids splashing, or even just pointing the returns at the surface so they bubble. It's a ratcheting process, because T/A measurements rise and fall with the pH level and the ONLY way to raise pH without raising T/A back up again is by aeration. But that's for later.
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