Test Results are in :(((

[MattinAZ]

Thanks very much for the sealant brand

Meanwhile after replacing the o-rings especially the Jandy valve o-ring it looks like the air problem is solved. I also need to replace the 6 way valve for the pop ups, ordered one online already.

Now back to shocking to pool to bring the hardness up. By the way HTH shock is leaving a residue making the pool cloudy I'll start running the pump overnight, hope it clears

Thanks
Matt

[BigDave]

You don't need to shock the pool. Just use the Cal-hypo for regular chlorination until you reach CH goal.
What kind of filter do you have?

[MattinAZ]

Oh what I meant by shocking was using CalHypo.

Anyway last night I have used 2 lbs 56% CalHypo and let the pump run, this morning it is clean and clear
Due to lack of CYA chlorine from CalHypo tends to disappear by late afternoon, pool receives direct sun for at least 8-9 hours a day and I am in Southern AZ. But then I use it again same night (1 lb bag) and let the pump run. Meanwhile I am also using the tablets (TriChlor) to build up the CYA levels

Here are the test results as of 1 pm today (this after using 2lbs CalHypo last night after hit by a rain storm).

FC 3.8 ppm
CC 0.1 ppm
pH 7.6 (down from 7.8)
TA 120 ppm (unchanged)
CH 140 ppm (up from 110)

For the filter I have Clean & Clear plus 320 (pentair) with new cartridges.

Thanks
Matt

[CarlD]

You'll want to keep using that Cal-Hypo or add calcium powder as you have a PebbleTec pool and your CH is still 60ppm under the recommended range of 200-400.

[BigDave]

I'm pretty sure CarlD warned you earlier, but, I'll say it again since you are using trichlor and cal-hypo at the same time. Don't let undissolved trichlor and cal-hypo near each other.

[MattinAZ]

@ Carl & Big Dave thanks for the heads up on cal hypo and trichlor.

As of today I have actually stopped using trichlor as my test results are ;

FC 1.6 ( this after staying under the sun whole day and last dichlor was added 48 hrs ago )
CC 0.1 ppm
pH 7.8
TA 100 ppm (down from 120 five days ago)
CA 170 ppm (up from 140 ppm 5 days ago, it is rising nicely, Doheny's CalHypo speeded up the process, used 3 lbs in 5 days)
CYA 35 ppm (black dot disappeared after 40 ppm but before 30 ppm so I am taking the average)

As of today I have stopped the trichlor, I was very surprised how quickly Pool Brands tablets was adding CYA. I have used probably about 10ea 3 inch tablets to bring it to 35 from 0, and it was not adding much chlorine. Now I guess I know why my CYA shot upto 200 pm before I drained the pool.

Plan is to continue with dichlor until I reach somewhere around 200 - 220 ppm CA and then to switch to bleach and add other Bs as needed. I will be checking chlorine and pH daily with dye based test and running full test about twice weekly.

I hope I can keep the pool in balance.

Thanks for all the help I've received from this forum, I really appreciate it.

Matt

[CarlD]

I think you mean cal-hypo, not di-chlor, as di-chlor adds CYA faster than Tri-chlor. Di-Chlor does NOT add calcium, Cal-hypo does. If your CYA goal was higher (like for a SWCG or southern clime), the tri-chlor would be good as it would lower your pH as well.

FYI: Tri-chlor add about 6ppm of CYA for every 10ppm of FC, while Di-chlor add about 9ppm of CYA for every 10ppm of FC, but tri-chlor is much more acidic.