Iron in water source

[BigDave]

Any improvement in the water quality?

[stcohen]

Turquoise instead of green. Trying to attach pic.

[stcohen]

[PoolDoc]

permissions aren't set correctly on the photo or image album.

[stcohen]

About pics, not sure what I did different but will try again tomorrow. Must be the algae from hell. Not much improvement until raised FC to 30 and then slow at best. Had to leave town today but will return tomorrow afternoon.

[FormerBromineUser]

Up to 30, huh? Did any iron staining appear?

[PoolDoc]

I figured out what was happening with the pictures, but it's too complicated to explain. I need to post detailed 'how-to' post pictures using each of the different services this winter.

Judging from the yellow-green color, it looks like you have fully 'bloomed' mustard algae. Unfortunately mustard algae is notoriously hard to kill.

IF your pool is not leaking, you may want to go the low phosphate route. BUT you have to understand the limitations of this approach:

1. Lowering phosphates *some* is USELESS! It ONLY begins to be useful once your phosphate level is below 0.125 ppm (125 ppb). So . ..

2. You MUST be able to test accurately. For that, you need this: Taylor K1106 Phosphate test @ Amazon

3. Low phosphates do NOT kill algae; it just slows algal growth, making it EASIER to kill or control algae.

4. Many of the phosphate removers sold are over-priced and under-powered. The best is PR-10000, which is hard to find. SeaKlear has a product that appears to be almost as good: SeaKlear Commercial Phosphate Remover For your pool, you'd want to buy 3 quarts, to make SURE you have enough.

5. Using a phosphate remover often clouds the water; you may want to use this clarifier: GLB Clear Blue Clarifier

6. You'll ALSO need to test your fill water. Most tap water has 1 - 4 ppm (1,000 - 4,000 ppb) phosphates added as a corrosion inhibitor. This means you'll need to add small matching doses of phosphate remover EVERY time you add fill water.

7. Removing phosphate is NOT an instant process. The reason seems to be that the lanthanum FIRST combines with carbonates in the water (clouding the water) and THEN the lanthanum carbonate gradually changes to lanthanum phosphate, releasing the carbonates back into the water. This seems to take 3 - 7 days. During this time, if you clean your filter, you tend to lose the lanthanum carbonate on the filter, before it can be converted. So you need to (a) clean the filter, (b) add the PO4 remover, (c) set the pump to run 24/7, (d) wait at least 3 days before cleaning the filter again. THEN, you test the phosphate levels, and repeat if the PO4 level is not below 125 ppb.

8. Total cost on your pool for the kit, PO4 remover and clarifier will be ~$150. Hopefully, you will have some PO4 remover left, possibly a full quart or more.

BUT . . .

9. On the upside, your phosphate levels will remain low until you add fill water OR a phosphate based stain control agent. If you are careful, once the PO4 level in your pool is low, it will only take minimal time and expense to KEEP it low, unless you drain and refill your pool.

10. Once the PO4 is below 0.125 ppm, it will become MUCH easier to kill, and then prevent, algae.

[stcohen]

Well, the good news is I'm pretty sure the iron is gone. Not only are there no stains, the stains on the white stairs are completely gone. I have a pump house and the plumber is coming tomorrow to reroute the fill source from the softener.

I did use some clarifier before I left town. Water looks pretty good, blue with algae debris on the bottom. Unable to filter as needs to go to waste. Will wait until tomorrow when I know source water is free of iron. Certain it will need to be done several times but can see bottom.

I ordered the phosphate test kit. I wouldn't be surprised to find them as there is a lot of farming where I am and this is some tough algae. Will test pool and fill water. Vacuuming to waste and replacing with good water, we may actually be able to use the pool next week. Plan to resolve any phosphate issues definitively before I close the pool this year.

Can't adequately express my gratitude to all of you for the guidance, support and concern :0)

[PoolDoc]

I'd be grateful if you would post your results as you test your pool phosphates and other levels, and as you remover the phosphates. Remember to test your fill water, too. City water is usually the primary source of phosphates.

Also, I suspect that you will need LESS phosphate remover, if you make several moderate additions of phosphate remover, rather than trying to fix it in one dose.

Keep in mind that lowering phosphate is in ADDITION to chlorinating, and will have NO EFFECT on the algae, until your PO4 levels become lower than 0.25 ppm (250 ppb), and won't be fully effective till you have less than 0.1 ppm of PO4 present.

Thanks!

[BigDave]

... will have NO EFFECT on the algae, until your PO4 levels become lower than 0.25 ppm (250 ppb), and won't be fully effective till you have less than 0.1 ppm of PO4 present...

I was still getting mustard algae at 250ppb. It didn't stop until I got the pool under 125ppb.