Baquacil to Bleach conversion (help needed)

[revhendrix]

We just had our water tested at a pool store and the ph level was "off the charts" probably between 21-32. Our cl level was 8. The guy at told me that we are in a state of "chlorine lock" and the chlorine will no longer work because the water is too acidic because of the high ph level. He suggested that we use ph minus -- a product to lower the ph to normal level so the chlorine will work. You add it every hour or so to the skimmer and run the filter continuously and wait for the levels to drop. He also said not to add anymore bleach until the level is lower(maybe a day or so). It's not so much the $$ of buying the ph product, I just don't want to get "pool stored" and also I don't want to delay the completion of this conversion. This is our 5th day and the water is clearing but still dark green in the deep end. Help!

[duraleigh]

Rev,

Are you sure you don't have those numbers reversed? pH=8 and Cl=21-32?

Even if you do, the pool store is incorrect.

This post points again to how important it is for everyone to have a decent test kit and understand what the results mean.

Rev, the process will work and I'm sure the pool store guy is a nice guy....but, he's misinformed.

Double check those numbers and get a complete set of test results....pH, Alk, FC, TC. That'll do more to help you get back on track than anything you put in your pool without testing.

[prh129]

Rev,

Did the pool store test for copper? I have seen other threads also (as Doug mentioned) where a clear green color is the result of copper in the water. If they didn't, it might be worth calling them to ask if they can. If you do have copper, then post an update (or look for the other threads) and you should get the information you need to get you over the hump. Hang in there!

Peter

[revhendrix]

Thanks for the replies...this website has definately helped me from filling my pool with sand (I'd have the nicest sandbox in the neighborhood!).

Anyway, we do have a decent test kit. It's a Taylor complete DPD test. Although we have to dilute (only up to 5ppm), I'm certain it's faily accurate.

I took a water sample to the pool store (close to my office) out of curiosity to see how accurate my tests were. I left without buying a thing because I wanted to consult this forum and run another test. I just couldn't believe that I was that far off.

When I got home at lunch, I ran another FC and ph test and they seem fine. FC was at 7.5 ppm (I added 2.5gal of Clorox to get the levels back up) and the Ph was at 7.4. I'm not sure what the pool guy was thinking...do they even have Ph levels that high?? Maybe he was really trying to "Pool store" me.

Thanks again and keep the advise coming.

[garrard]

A quick Google search found that a ph=14 is equvalent to drain cleaner, so I kinda doubt you had a ph in the 20s! Man, it's been a long time since I had chemistry...

Doug

[revhendrix]

ok, into day 6 and here is an update. Still trying to keep the FC at 15ppm, and I'm using less Clorax. The pool is considerably clearer, but still has a green tinge. You can see the bottom throughout the pool (even in the deep end). I did some chemical tests before I left for work (DPD test/dilluted 2:1 for the FC):

FC: 12 (added 1.5gal of Clorax)
Ph: 7.5
TA: 170-180

That's all I tested.

On my way to work, I stopped by the pool store to test my accuracy. Their readings:

ph: 8.2
TA: 200
CH: 50
CYA: 10

They said they couldn't test for FC (huh?) but said my clorine levels were high (4+). I asked the guy what that stood for and he couldn't tell me (i.e. CC/TC/FC). Needless to say, I was surprised about that along with the difference in readings.

What's my next step....? Still Bleach and when to add additional chemicals. Should I try to lower the Ph?

Thanks and I hope my posts are helping others going through this ordeal!!

[aylad]

If you're using less Clorox and your pool is improving, those are very good signs! Stay with it, you'll get there. I would trust your pH readings over the test store's, and at 7.5 it is fine. You can lower it if you want, but I wouldn't bother.

Janet

[revhendrix]

Good morning all...here's an update:

We're into day nine (9). The pool is clear but still has a green tint. It's been the same since about day 5, but is getting clearer each day (we can easily see the drain in the deep end. We've done our best at keeping the cl at 15ppm and have gone through 73.5 gallons of 6% Clorox. The pool seems to be able to keep a decent cl level (never below 9ppm), but we keep adding bleach to get to 15ppm. Each day we expect to see clear blue...but are disapointed that it's still has a green tint.

There's no copper in the water (we had the water tested for it).

Someone give me some good news or good advise...the frustration is begining to take over. Is it possible that this process could take longer than 9-10 days??

[revhendrix]

Hi all...

The pools almost crystal clear. If I'm being fussy, there's still a green tinge to it, but overall it looks fantastic. The nylon sock is collecting less and less orange goop, but nonetheless, it's still collecting a bit. I'm backwashing twice a day and seeing an orange cloud of water run through the eyeglass for a few seconds. The CL levels stay at 10ppm or better over night, although during a hot sunny day, I see them drop to 4-6ppm. I'm still doing my best to keep the levels up to 15ppm. Unbelievably, I've been at this for 11 days, but I think I'm about done. I'll change the sand in a week or two.

Can I add the CYA now (in the sock method) and stop the 15ppm clorine?? My CYA levels are under 30 (the pool store says 10).

How much CYA do you put in (I fear putting in too much)?

Thanks in advance for answering.....

[prh129]

Hi Rev,

The stabilizer (CYA) bottle should have some guidelines on it but I would say that adding a 4 lb bottle should give you a max rise of 20 ppm (I would guess it would be a little less) so that's probably a good amount to start. You could buy extra while you're at it to adjust later as necessary.

Also, I have seen in other threads that some conversions need polyquat to get the water crystal clear. Since you mention a green tinge but otherwise are under control, you could try this but I don't have the firsthand knowledge to be able to say it will help for sure, I'm just going by what has worked for others.

Congrats on your conversion.

Peter