New Gunite Pool startup questions

[mshumack]

I am doing an owner-built pool and have just added the water. I have Ben's PS233 test kit. I would appreciate any startup advice you can offer.

The pool is gunite. About 39 feet x 18 feet, freeform. I have a 60sq-ft DE filter.

The plaster was done on Monday (3/27/06) it is a product from Premixmarbletite Co. called Millenium (like a Diamond Brite). I started filling the pool that night. I ran my garden hose off my well (high iron) from 9PM to 7AM. On Tuesday I had a tanker deliver 18,000 gallons of water. I am assuming the pool is around 20,000 gallons.

The finsh installer (plasterer) told me to run the pump 24 hour a day, brush twice a day, and not to add any DE poweder (My filter instructions say to never run filter without DE powder but I didn't read this untill Wednesday night - I have now added the DE). He came on Wednesday afternoon and added two bottles of "Jack's Magic" and 4 gallons of muratic acid (he did no water testing). He gave me one extra bottle to add on Thursday night. I have been brshing the pool twice a day. I believe this is called an acid startup.

My test kit reading on Wednesday night (3/29) were:
PH 6.8
Calcium 200
CYA 0 (not sure if I did this test correctly)
Chlorine 0
Alk 20.

On Thursday night, the readings were about the same.
I added 4 LBS of Baking Soda.

On Friday night (following instructions I got off the web for an acid startup, I am supposed to begin to balance the water), therefore I added about a pound of "PH UP" (100% Sodium Carbonate).

Today, Saturday morning (4/1) my readings are:
PH 7.5
Calcium 150
CYA 0
Chlorine 0
ALK 90.

I aslo bought Chlorine stabalizer (100% cyanuric acid) but have not added any yet. I plan to use Borax, Baking Soda, and Bleach once I get everything right.

What should I do now? Should I start adding the chlorine (and stabilizer)?

Thanks,
mike

[Lenny]

Hi,

I just had a gunite pool installed last fall. I'm a new pool owner and have a lot to learn but I'll add my 2 cents anyway (I'm sure the generous folks around here will correct me if I make a mistake ).

You were definitely given bad info about the DE. It should have been added right away.

Definitely add Chlorine right away and get your CYA to the recommended levels. Not sure what part of the country you're from, but most people here keep their CYA between 30 and 50.

If you have standard white plaster than you should not need to add any PH up for now. When you brush the plaster the PH will automatically rise. Especially in the early going. If anything, you'll need to add more acid soon after you brush the pool a few times.

Good luck!

Lenny

[mshumack]

Thanks your replying.
The instructions I downloaded for an acid startup said not to add chlorine for the first three days, then, on day four, once the PH and alkalinity are within acceptable range then add chlorine (not to exceed 3.5ppm).
I added the PH UP because it is day four and the PH was still below 7.2. Now I am at 7.5 and my Alk is at 90 so I will start to chlorinate.

When do I add the Stabalizer? What will this do to my other readings?

Mike in Central FL

[waterbear]

I assume you are talking about the acid startup procedure devleoped by United Chemical. If you are following that procedure it is necessary to follow it by the letter! I gather it is a bit controviersial but if done properly gives good results. Be aware that it is different from a normal startup procedure and the two shouldn't be intermixed by my understanding of them. Here is a brief synopsis of the procedure:
Fill the pool as quickly as possible Do not turn on circulation or pumps
Add a chelating agent that will work in extremely low pH.
Add 4 ga muriatic acid per 10.,00 gal water by walking it around the pool and then brush throughly to distribute it.
Do not add chlorine or vacumn until the plaster dust has disappeared but do brush daily. this will take a few days.
Neutralize the acid with Soda Ash (ph increaser, washing soda from the grocery store, sodium carbonate---all different names for the same thing)
This is one place a Base Demand test (as found in the Taylor K-2005 and K-2006 kits is just about necessary since the pool is so acidic and you need to raise the pH quickly). Wait 24 hours, retest, and repeat this step until ph is 7.2 or more.
When the pH is 7.2 or above turn on your circulation, clean the filter when pressure increases about 10 psi over normal.
Add your bleach in small amounts until residual is at correct level and then continue with such things as CYA, Calcium , Total Alkalinity. In theroy, the calcium and total alkalinity will be in the correct ballpark when you are finished. Good luck!

[mshumack]

My instructions from the Plasterer was to run the pump immediately after filling. Although I don't have a lot of confidence in him since he told me not to add DE poweder right away -which is wrong.

I thought I was doing an Acid startup because the Plasterer added 4 gallons of acid to the pool. My instructions were to brush twice a day and after four or five days to balance the water and start swimming.

The instructions I found on the web are from "Everbrite Pool Finish". They seem to match the instrcutions/procedure I was given regarding the low PH for a couple of days and the running of the pump from day one.

I am now in day five and beginning to balance the water chemistry. I plan to add Chlorine on Sunday and hopefully be swimming in a few days after that.

Does it sound like I am doing the right things?

[waterbear]

If that is the type of finish you have you probably are. The acid startup procedure is for plaster. I don't know what type of finsih everbrite is.

[waterbear]

I
The finsh installer (plasterer) told me to run the pump 24 hour a day, brush twice a day, and not to add any DE poweder (My filter instructions say to never run filter without DE powder but I didn't read this untill Wednesday night - I have now added the DE).
mike

You might want to check your DE grids to make sure they didn't clog with plaster dust before you added the DE!

[mshumack]

My pool pressure was 20psi when I started the pump for the first time. It went up to 30 psi after a day or two of brushing. I backflushed then and the pressure dropped back to 19 - 20 psi. After another full day of running and brushing, the pressure went back up to 30. I repeated the backwashing and again the pressure returned to 20.

After I get the plaster dust somewhat removed (hopefully in a day or so) and I don't see a cloud of dust with each brush pass - I will shut down everything and dissassemble the filter. I expect I will need to clean the grids in a mild muratic acid solution at that time.

How long does it usually take before the plaster dust is gone?

[mshumack]

If that is the type of finish you have you probably are. The acid startup procedure is for plaster. I don't know what type of finsih everbrite is.

The finish I had installed is from www.Premixmarbeltite.com, it is called Millenium (similar to Diamond Brite. It is a plaster typr finish). The reference to Evebrite was because that was the website were I downloaded the startup instructions. Premixmarbletite did not have startup instructions on their product.
Mike