Pump Woes

[waste]

Good morning all. Null, thanks for the pics, it makes advising you a lot easier! I'd say that Carl is right on the money, on motors with that much visible oxidation usually the bearings are shot. When the motor runs, is it a lot louder than it used to be? If so it's either the bearings (most likely) or the brushes. If you have a small electric motor repair shop in town you can try to have them fix it, but only if the will give you a warantee (sometimes a newly fixed motor will die again within a month), if not you are probably better off replacing the motor.
From the pics, I'm trying to tell if your impeller is broken, looks like the stem has snapped off (I can't recall a super pump that has a flat backed impeller, though the northstars do). Before you go to put the pump back together, purchase a new shaft seal assembly (SP1600Z2) and housing gasket (SP1600T) and use the new ones, these things don't like being taken apart and will often fail on reintallation - don't forget to lube them with silicone or teflon based lube. The rest of the parts look good, even the diffuser gasket, sorry that this won't be cheep, but after it's done you'll have a lot less headaches (I'm thinking that this will cost ~ $250 for the motor and the seal assy and gasket). Good luck, if you need any help, just give a whistle.

[Poconos]

Just to set the record straight, there are no brushes in these motors. Brushes are used in DC or AC/DC motors with a commutator. However there is a centrifugal switch in the back end of these motors but that doesn't seem to be the problem since the shaft is seized, or at least tight. That motor looks pretty beat and in that condition, with the corrosion around the cord entry too, I'd wonder what the condition is of the switch and centrifugal assembly which is in the rear under the back cover. I'd go for a new pump. Your time is worth a lot too and you could fuss with this thing and still not have a reliable unit.
Al

[NullQwerty]

Thanks everyone

I tried plugging in just the motor without the pump. The shaft did not spin (but it did hum again). I unplugged it and tried one more time to confirm. Same thing although this time I did hear a grind/grumbling noise that lasted for a second or so.

As far as how loud it was when it was running, it's hard to say because I had nothing to compare it to. First time pool owner (just bought the house). However, I found it to be loud.

You guys called the white powder oxidation, and you're probably right, but it had crossed my mind that it might be DE. Possible?

So, I guess the conseses seems to be that I should just replace it. The motor itself I found for $180. The whole pump I found for $280. Being that it was suggested to replace some other parts too, I may just buy a whole new unit and save myself some headaches.

So, my only real question is, what happened here? Did this just get old and was time for relacement or was this used improperly, or maintained improperly? I just want to know so that it doesn't happen to my new one either.

Thanks a ton guys!

[waste]

Null, as you are still on the forum, I guess I caught you before you went to the store. My $ quote was based on what our store would charge ($240 for the motor, $15 for the seal and $4-5 for the housing gasket). You are getting much better prices wherever you're going, a new pump would be over $400 from us. That said, save yourself some hastle and get the whole pump, I was trying to save you some $, but for $280 the new pump makes sense.
Al, thanks for the education, I've only seen the inside of the motor once (~1990) and was told that there were brushes in them - sorry for disseminating BS
As to a cause for the failure, poor maintenance. A lot of folks keep all their pool stuff together for the winter, pump, filter, skimmer baskets, etc as well as thier chems - including tri chlor tabs. As I said before, even tightly sealed cl will vent off and oxidize all metals in the area - add a compromised shaft seal (with the often acidic water from using tri chlor) ... and it's rust city!


Good luck with the new pump, you probably won't need it but, if any advice is required to get the new one in, just ask - that's why we're here

[CarlD]

OK,
Your motor is plastered--I seriously doubt that's DE--looks like corrosion to me.

You'll need parts to get the pump back together, and then either need a new motor (doesn't have to be Hayward) or a repair job. Plus there's the time element where your pool has no filtering.

Sounds like an IDEAL opportunity to upgrade. That doesn't mean a more powerful pump--it means a pump that is quieter, more energy efficient, and maybe 2 speeds (once you have a 2 spd pump you NEVER want a single speed again!). You may even be able to use a LOWER HP pump and get the same performance.

[NullQwerty]

Thx everyone. Waste I did get your message before heading out. Thx for the advice!

Sorry CarlD...Headed to the store before getting your message unfortunately so I hadn't even considered a dual speed or even any other pump. Just bought the same one as I had before. It's the Hayward Super Pump 1.5 HP. Before I open it, are you thinking I should return it and get something else instead? Paid $297 with tax. I had just assumed it was a decent pump since I had read about so many people owning them. I obviously prefer not returning it but if you think I made a mistake here, then I would.

[duraleigh]

How many gallons in your pool and can you see a gpm rating on the filter? (or find that rating on a web site)

Those two things best determine the size of your pump.