Cannot raise CYA

[Big Splash]

Forgive me, but I'm going to be cruel to be kind for a moment...

Shocking you pool based on pool store testing is kinda like taking medications based on your local voodoo doctor diagnosis. You really can't be sure if you really have anything wrong and / or what the results will be to fix what may or may not need fixing. You have a test kit. Please, use it and report the results before your next post.

Thank you

[QiingGuy]

LOL, if that's cruel you need to visit some of the other forums I belong to LOL.

OK just tested myself and I'm at FC 4 and .02. I'm confused. BTW, I watched the video again just to confirm I'm doing this properly.

[Watermom]

Do you mean CC of 0.2? Are you using a 25mL water sample?

And, is this AFTER you shocked the pool? How much after and how much bleach did you add to shock it?

[QiingGuy]

Sorry, cc of .02.

I have not shocked. Someone suggested I test with my kit vs. the pool store test my wife's been doing prior to shocking. Now I'm questioning the values I've been getting from the pool store.

So do I hold off on the shock?

[Big Splash]

I could of been more stern but this a nice forum. Other forums I would of busted on you

Those pool store results you posted didn't jive with you having a clear pool. CYA pool store (a.k.a. fool store) testing isn't worth the printout they gave you.

Testing is like your pool GPS. It works because it first figures out where you are and then tells how to get where you wanna be. In other words, you'll never find you way to NYC from Las Vegas if your GPS tells you you're in Madrid. Those pool store results place you somewhere east of the Nile River and nowhere near the Colorado River. Get it ?

[PoolDoc]

CYA pool store (a.k.a. fool store) testing isn't worth the printout they gave you.

Just to be fair . . . from what I see here, I'd guess that at least 1 pool store in 50 provides accurate testing and generally reliable advice. It might even be 1 store in 20.

So, not all pool stores are bad. The problem is, the only way to know whether you can trust yours, is to learn enough so you don't need them much, even if they ARE trustworthy!

[Big Splash]

Fair enough

[Pappy]

Ok, if I understand, your CYA is around 80, and your chlorine is 20? If that's true then the pH test is invalid unless you diluted (50/50) the pool water with DISTILLED water. Chlorine levels above 5ppm (or 10 with the Taylor kit) cause invalid results. If you have cloudy water and the Intex cartridge filter, you need to run the pump 24/7 and you still may be a week or two from clear water. [EDIT] The manual recommendations are for "IDEAL" conditions, and that is not where it seems you are. [END EDIT] I'd turn the SWCG off and use bleach to chlorinate TO SHOCK LEVEL (20 to 25ppm for you) until these 3 things are true,
1. There is less than 1ppm FREE chlorine loss over night
2. There is less than .5ppm COMBINED chlorine at sunrise
3. There is no sign of live algae
Doing this will help extend the life of the SWCG, and needs to be done if the SWCG is on or off. It is lots easier to tell what's going on without the SWCG because it adds an indefinite amount of chlorine.

With your CYA level, you're looking at a MINIMUM free chlorine level of 8ppm. Maybe shoot for starting with 12ppm and see if that is still 8 at sundown.

That being said, IF there is no sign of LIVE algae, and you can see the bottom of the pool, and your chlorine level is between 8 and 16, it is safe to swim. Wear old suits. Stirring up the water will help get the dead algae to the filter. Be sure to read
http://pool9.net/cartridge-clean/

ALSO, I'm pretty sure that all Intex SWCGs have a copper ionizer. Copper kills algae fairly well, bacteria - not so much. Copper can stain pools and turn light hair green (it's not chlorine that does that). If you keep enough chlorine to kill the bacteria, that's usually enough to kill algae. You might want to see if you can SAFELY disconnect the copper ionizer.

Good luck!

Pappy