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Thread: Chlorine Lock ?

  1. #31
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    Default Re: Chlorine Lock ?

    Quote Originally Posted by sabres07 View Post
    As a point of referrence, I was told I had 'chlorine lock' a few years ago by my pool store after having the same problem you are having now. No matter how much chlorine I added it would get eaten up almost immediately. So I googled chlorine lock and found this site....I have not set foot in a pool store since then and my pool has been crystal clear, too, since I have been following the BBB method. By the way, it took something like 30-35 gallons of 12% chlorine to kill whatever was causing my chlorine demand. We eventually figured my problem stemmed from a degredation of CYA over the winter which created ammonia as a waste product. Vast amounts of chlorine are needed to rid the ammonia.
    I also had to deal with the effects of CYA degradation this spring. I estimate I lost about 40ppm of CYA. It took about 26 jugs of 8% bleach before CL levels stabilized. It's been smooth sailing from there.
    22'x40' Grecian Lazy L 20K gal IG vinyl pool; Aqua Rite SWCG T15 cell; Hayward Pro Grid 6020 DE filter; Hayward Superpump 1hp pump; 12 hrs; Taylor K-2006; city; PF:6

  2. #32
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    Default Re: Chlorine Lock ?

    Today I received the official K 2006 test kit that I ordered. After reading the directions, I realized that they are quite detailed! Can anyone offer advice in plain English to get me through this testing procedure?

    I've been keeping the pool looking pretty good by the addition of bleach but it's teetering on the edge of algae hell-I can just tell. I am hoping to get the numbers I need to get the guidance I need to settle my pool problem once and for all. Thanks all!

    Jane

  3. #33
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    Default Re: Chlorine Lock ?

    Watch these videos in this thread

    Taylor K2006 Videos on YouTube
    http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...eos-on-YouTube
    19.5k gal, 16x32 vinyl liner, sand filter, 1hp single speed pump, K-2006 test kit. PF=6

  4. #34
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    Default Re: Chlorine Lock ?

    Watch the videos and ignore the booklet and the wheel, they are unnecessarily confusing.

  5. #35
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    Default Re: Chlorine Lock ?

    nix the booklet and watch the vids. Also...the instructions inside the box on the inside label are pretty easy to follow.

    With the test tube thingy you have three levels marked on the side. Use the smallest level it will save you in the long run and the measurement is just as good. Fill the tube with water up to the first line. Add two small spoonfuls of the white powder than swirl it around. Then add the titrating agent drop by drop slowly swirling it around after each drop. Multiply the number of drops by .5 and that is your FC measurement. 8 drops of titrating agent = FC of 4 etc etc.

    CYA level is key. It will tell you how much chlorine you need to add for both shocking your pool and simply maintaining the levels. Look in Watermom's siggy for links to the "Best Guess Chart" and read the text that goes along with it. This info is key to utilizing the BBB method successfully.
    15,000 Gallon AG -24' round -- Vinyl Liner -- 1 HP Hayward Power Flow LX -- Sand Filter -- PF=5.5

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    Default Re: Chlorine Lock ?

    Quote Originally Posted by robbym70 View Post
    ...the instructions inside the box on the inside label are pretty easy to follow.
    True that!


    ...Use the smallest level it will save you in the long run and the measurement is just as good...
    Also true, most of us use the 10ml sample to test chlorine. In fact if one dipper of powder turns the water pink - that's all you need.

  7. #37
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    Okay you guys...I freaked out a little when I opened that test kit box. I'm just a novice. The videos helped.

    I hope I did the testing correctly. Here goes!

    FC 6.8
    CC 4.4
    PH 7.4
    TA 120
    CALCIUM HARDNESS 130
    CYA It was less than the 100 mark (was not sure what number to put)
    Last edited by PoolDoc; 07-25-2014 at 04:55 PM. Reason: merge sequential posts

  8. #38
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    Default Re: Chlorine Lock ?

    Quote Originally Posted by mjsboone View Post
    FC 6.8
    Ok, if rather low, given your CYA level.

    CC 4.4
    Should be less than 0.5 ppm. This is WAY too high, and indicates that there is STILL stuff needing oxidation.

    PH 7.4
    TA 120
    CH 130
    All fine. It wouldn't hurt to use borax to raise your pH, however. The by-products of the oxidation process tend to be 'nicer' at a higher pH level.

    CYA It was less than the 100 mark (was not sure what number to put)
    This indicates that your CYA level is MORE than 100 ppm. That's consistent with the theory that you had high CYA, that was partially metabolized by bacteria to form ammonia.

    You'll eventually need to retest, using a 50:50 dilution of pool water with DISTILLED water, and multiply the result x2. You must use DISTILLED water and not "spring" water or any of the other variants: http://www.walmart.com/ip/10315382

  9. #39
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    Default Re: Chlorine Lock ?

    Thank you for looking at my numbers. What exactly should I do now. I've been adding bleach everyday until I got the test kit and the numbers needed to determine the problem. Will I be adding bleach everyday from now on or should I be doing something else? I guess I remain a little confused about the next step.

  10. #40
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    Default Re: Chlorine Lock ?

    If it were me, I'd retest the cya using the diluting method 1st. You may need to drain. You'll just be wasting bleach if you need to drain. Good testing aways gives you good answers about what to do next.
    Last edited by Watermom; 07-25-2014 at 07:05 PM. Reason: change "waisting" to "wasting"
    19.5k gal, 16x32 vinyl liner, sand filter, 1hp single speed pump, K-2006 test kit. PF=6

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