That's a good plan. I find the persistent algae point is inside my wedding cake stairs. Water circulation is almost non-existent there and it's impossible to get inside it to brush--but you can see inside.
It's interesting how this thread has morphed from testing for phosphates to testing the whole need to do so in the first place. I guess the answer (for me anyway) is it doesn't seem likely the effort is worth it. I'll just keep my FC at the upper end of the best guess chart, raise the CYA to about 60 and see how it goes.
It has been worth the effort to discuss the idea here. Thanks for all the expert info.
Happy 4th all
Splash
19.5k gal, 16x32 vinyl liner, sand filter, 1hp single speed pump, K-2006 test kit. PF=6
That's a good plan. I find the persistent algae point is inside my wedding cake stairs. Water circulation is almost non-existent there and it's impossible to get inside it to brush--but you can see inside.
Carl
Thanks! You, too!
Regarding the question of whether phosphate level control is "worth it", if
(a) you don't have problems with persistent algae in spite of good chlorine levels, and
(b) you aren't having difficulties keeping your pool clear and clean during vacation or other absences,
then you probably don't have a reason to fool with it.
Hi folks been a while hope everyone is well.
This thread got my interest because of the price of phosphate remover. My questions is around my Florida pool (FL Pool: 10K gal gunite, zero edge, chlorinated with 3'' pucks, cartridge filter, spill over spa). I have it serviced due to limited use and last 2 months had an extra $10 charge for phosphate remover. Looking at the prices posted here they could not be adding much or are not using a good product. Over all happy with the service provided, the pool is clean and algae free when I'm there ( but I'd prefer to maintian it myself with BBB - someday)
Anyway, question is around $10 for additional service for phosphate remover. thanks
NJ Pool: In Ground, 40,000 Gal vinyl liner, chlorinated using BBB, Gas Heated, DE Grid filtration.
FL Pool: 10K gal gunite, chlorinated with 3'' pucks, cartridge filter, spill over spa
@donfranko: I'm sorry, but if there was a question in there, I'm not sure what it was.
I think he wants to know if $10 for a service to add phosphate remover is a good price or an indication they didn't use nearly enough. I think.....
Carl
If that's it, I can't answer.
It depends on the phosphate level of his fill water.
Thanks Carl & Doc. Carl had it right seemed like not enough may have been used. The water looks good and I took my test kit with me. Is there a test for phosphate in fill water?
NJ Pool: In Ground, 40,000 Gal vinyl liner, chlorinated using BBB, Gas Heated, DE Grid filtration.
FL Pool: 10K gal gunite, chlorinated with 3'' pucks, cartridge filter, spill over spa
Yes, the Taylor kit is best. The AquaCheck test is cheaper and easier, but isn't very useful at PO4 levels above 500 (0.5 ppm). Water company samples may have 4,000 ppb (4 ppm).
You'll find the Taylor kit info toward the bottom of this page: http://pool9.net/tk/
PS. Even with the Taylor kit, you may have to dilute samples. If you do, buy a gallon of DISTILLED water from Walmart., to dilute with.
Thread update...
I raised the CYA to 60 using trichlor tabs and have kept the FC at or above 10. Downside to this approach is testing the pH (without having to dilute with distilled water as I've read). While there's no visible algae growth like before, I can still see some (brownish dust) come off the steps, sides and corners as I bush the areas where my pool cleaner doesn't get to. Not surprising considering all the nasty wind swept thunderstorms rolling through NJ in the past week. These storms caused a couple major leaf cleanup jobs for me. So, I think my problem isn't removing phosphates. It's stopping them from getting in the pool in first place. I might be better buying a chainsawOther than that, I might try adding borates.
Thanks all,
Splash
19.5k gal, 16x32 vinyl liner, sand filter, 1hp single speed pump, K-2006 test kit. PF=6
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