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Thread: Pool chemistry

  1. #1
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    Default Pool chemistry

    I am new at this stuff so please bare with me. I bought a HTH 5 test kit the other day. This is my reults.

    CL=>5ppm
    ph=7.5 to 7.8
    TA=100ppm
    Total hardness=0 I believe. When 5 drops were added solution did not change color, suppose to be red to indicate hardness.
    CYA=>100ppm liquid was little below the 100 mark on the tube.

    Vinyl pool 16X32 IG. Hardness range should be from 200-800pmn and CYA should be 30-50ppm. My chlorine is always high deep yellow color. I shocked pool 1 week prior to memorial day weekend and have been using an automated hayward chlorinator and trichloro 3" pucks set at between 0 and 1. My chlorine does not seem to drop off even though I have the Chlorinator set very low. Where is my problem, or Do I have a problem? Water is brilliantly clear. Any comments/suggestions would be grealy appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Pool chemistry

    Some TA tests can suffer interfernce from high chlorine levels. retest when you know the chlorine is 5 ppm or less.
    Ditto for pH test!
    11.75'x23.75' kidney 6.5K gal IG fiberglass pool/300 gal acrylic spillover spa combo; Aqualogic automation/SWCG; Pentair Clean and Clear 150 cart filter; 1.5 hp uprated 2 spd Pentair Whisperflo pump; PF:17
    Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Pool chemistry

    Several comments. Your cya is really high. With a cya over 100, you have a couple of choices. 1 - You can do a partial drain and try and lower it. Or - 2 - you can keep the high cya and just run higher than normal chlorine. Check the post at the following link for more about that. At any rate, you need to quit using the trichlor pucks as they will continue to make your cya climb.

    http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=365


    If you decide to just run higher than normal chlorine readings, you will need to be able to more accurately tell your chlorine reading. I suggest buying Ben's kit at his www.poolsolutions.com website. It is what most of us use and is the best kit you can buy. Or at least, you can dilute your sample and make your test kit read higher. Mix one part pool water with one part distilled water, test as usual and then multiply the result by 2. If you still need to go higher, mix one part pool water and two parts distilled, and then multiply the result by 3, etc.

    Calcium hardness is irrelevent for a vinyl pool and even for a concrete/gunite pool, the range is 200-400, not 200-800.

    Hope this helps.

  4. #4
    waste is offline --trial user-- Whizbang Spinner waste 3 stars waste 3 stars waste 3 stars
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    Smile Re: Pool chemistry

    Quote Originally Posted by jcarroca
    I am new at this stuff so please bare with me. I bought a HTH 5 test kit the other day. This is my reults.

    CL=>5ppm
    ph=7.5 to 7.8
    TA=100ppm
    Total hardness=0 I believe. When 5 drops were added solution did not change color, suppose to be red to indicate hardness.
    CYA=>100ppm liquid was little below the 100 mark on the tube.

    Vinyl pool 16X32 IG. Hardness range should be from 200-800pmn and CYA should be 30-50ppm. My chlorine is always high deep yellow color. I shocked pool 1 week prior to memorial day weekend and have been using an automated hayward chlorinator and trichloro 3" pucks set at between 0 and 1. My chlorine does not seem to drop off even though I have the Chlorinator set very low. Where is my problem, or Do I have a problem? Water is brilliantly clear. Any comments/suggestions would be grealy appreciated.
    J, let me be the first to tell you to stop filling the CL200 (220) tab chlorinator and switch to bleach only for chlorine. The tabs you are using will drive your cya way up (though even the 'experts' on this forum can't agree on what the best level is we all agree that 100+ is too much), and tend to turn your pool water into an acid bath (the tabs have a very low [2. someting pH] and eat any metals in the system and pool area. You don't need any calcium in a vinyl pool. Take a look at the first post, it's stickied, in the "Chlorine" section of this forum and you'll find Ben's Best Guess chart on chlorine levels vs CYA levels - very helpful. Also give the mother site to this one POOLSOLUTIONS a good read through to find out what Ben, our mentor and administrator, says about various pool issues, including chemistry.
    The chlorine doesn't drop because the CYA is 'locking' it up, it's reactivity (to UV, organics and viruses) has been reduced to a snails pace - in short, it can't do it's job at it's current level. Though the water is clear now, this may allow for infections to be passed on or an algae bloom. Though I have a fair knowledge of pool chemistry, I'm not an expert, there are people here that actually understand what's going on - l'll leave it at this until one of them comes along. Welcome to the forum! I'll keep my eye on this and if you don't receive more info, I'll call on a few of the experts to help you. - Waste
    Luv & Luk, Ted

    Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill libraries

  5. #5
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    Unhappy Re: Pool chemistry

    I am really upset at my situation. I am hoping that my CYA numbers are lower than what I tested. I bought 40 lbs ($$$) of these pucks becuase both the pool contractor and the pool shop told me they were the best maintenance product that I can use. Why do trichloro pucks have CYA. I know this stuff sells like hot cakes and I got a good deal for the bulk quanity (Atleast I thought I did). Where will I get if complain to my pool store. Why am I the only one with this problem. Is there chlorine pucks with out CYA. I don't want to get rid of my chlorinator.

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    aylad is offline SuperMod Emeritus Vortex Adjuster aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars aylad 4 stars
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    Default Re: Pool chemistry

    There are chlorine (cal-hypo) pucks without CYA, but YOU CANNOT USE THEM IN YOUR INLINE CHLORINATOR, EVEN IF YOU CLEAN IT WELL FIRST!!! You run a serious risk of explosion and injury if you try. The chlorinator you have is designed for trichlor, and trichlor only. And no, trichlor isn't available without CYA.

    If it makes you feel any better, you're not the only one with this problem--it is a very common problem among people that trust their pool store to balance their water for them--but forget that pool store people make their money by selling you stuff to fix problems! Trichlor is not a bad thing, if you understand the chemistry behind it. If you have a pool with low CYA and a pH trending upward, trichlor pucks are exactly what you need to fix it. HOwever, if your CYAis already that high, use of the trichlor will only drive it higher, requiring you to use more and more chlorine as a maintanance level, as Watermom said. If you want to continue to use the chlorinator, I suggest that you drain/refill a large enough quantity of water (not all at the same time unless you use the sheet method) to get your CYA back down to20-30 or so, and then set your chlorinator at the lowest setting. Toward the end of the summer you may find yourself having to supplement with bleach, but that's one of the caveats of trichlor.

    Janet

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Pool chemistry

    Quote Originally Posted by jcarroca
    I am really upset at my situation. I am hoping that my CYA numbers are lower than what I tested. I bought 40 lbs ($$$) of these pucks becuase both the pool contractor and the pool shop told me they were the best maintenance product that I can use. Why do trichloro pucks have CYA. I know this stuff sells like hot cakes and I got a good deal for the bulk quanity (Atleast I thought I did). Where will I get if complain to my pool store. Why am I the only one with this problem. Is there chlorine pucks with out CYA. I don't want to get rid of my chlorinator.
    Nope, you're not the only one with this problem.

    The CYA addition from the trichlor appears to be a recurring issue for a lot of people here. Click on my user name and read the posts that have CYA in their titles. I got some good advice here, and I'm new at this game too.

    Lowe's wants $96 for a 40 pound tub of trichlor pucks.

    TW

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Pool chemistry

    Quote Originally Posted by jcarroca
    I am really upset at my situation. I am hoping that my CYA numbers are lower than what I tested. I bought 40 lbs ($$$) of these pucks becuase both the pool contractor and the pool shop told me they were the best maintenance product that I can use. Why do trichloro pucks have CYA. I know this stuff sells like hot cakes and I got a good deal for the bulk quanity (Atleast I thought I did). Where will I get if complain to my pool store. Why am I the only one with this problem. Is there chlorine pucks with out CYA. I don't want to get rid of my chlorinator.
    They wouldn't be trichlor if they didn't have CYA. That's why most of us are using bleach. It isn't as easy as a chlorinator, but it doesn't have the side-effects. The only difference between us (and I'm including you) and the rest of the pool owners out there is that we're aware of the problem.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Pool chemistry

    I am trying to understand what caused my elevated CYA #'s. I have had this pool for 2.5 years, run it only for 3 months out of the year and use ~ 2-3 trichloro pucks evey 2 weeks for maintenance and shock with granular chlorine. I am taking a sample of my water to a local pool store and see what he says.

  10. #10
    waste is offline --trial user-- Whizbang Spinner waste 3 stars waste 3 stars waste 3 stars
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    Exclamation Re: Pool chemistry

    J, until you can accuratly test the water yourself, taking it to a reliable pool store that does free testing with reliable and calibrated equipment is your best option - you need to know what your chem values are. If they try to sell you a bunch of stuff, don't buy it, bring the numbers they give you here and let the good folks help you, without spending $$$. If on the other hand, you want to keep your pool builder and pool store's wallets full - that is your choice and I wish you well with your pool and shed full of chems.

    What you seem to need is POP (pool owner patience) - a problem that has been caused over the course of years can't be errased in a couple of days nor with the addition of 'miracle product "X"' You're on the right track comming here and taking control of your pool, but it takes time - if you stick with it, by the end of the summer you'll know more about pool water chemistry than either your builder or the pool store tester!
    Luv & Luk, Ted

    Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill libraries

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