Report back tomorrow your results of the overnight test.
Report back tomorrow your results of the overnight test.
With almost no stabilizer present, 20 ppm of chlorine is rather high. FC=20 *and* CYA=0 is high enough to damage swimwear and be irritating to some swimmers.
BUT, if you *really* have no stabilizer, you'll lose almost all your chlorine in an hour under full sun. So, that's a sort of the test. FC=20 and CYA=20 is very different and NOT a problem, even if still rather high.
Yesterday, I added 32 oz. muriatic acid in small doses. I cleaned and vacuumed well and went in to stir the waters. There was still debris and cloudiness but I could see the bottom through it.
This morning, it it still cloudy, but the CH has improved and the FC remained at 15 from last night. TA is same and PH is way over (inaccurate with FC so high, right?)
Last night: This morning:
FC 15 FC 15
TA 275 TA 275
CH 750 CH 425
I really think the filter is not doing its job efficiently and needs a sand replacement and considering adding salt to help with the high TA?
8k gal 16x24 oval AG pool; mesh winter cover, well water fill, Premium Blue 22 sand filter, Premium Blue 1.5hp 1spd pump operating 24/7. PF=15
If this --- CH: 750 => 425 --- is accurate, your filter is doing a heck of a job removing suspended calcium particles. You can test it with the DE test: http://pool9.net/de-test/
Retest your pH with 1/2 pool water and 1/2 distilled water (gallon jug from Walmart: MUST be "distilled"). Distilled water changes the pH very little, but reduces the chlorine by 1/2, so you can get valid results.
However it appears that you are doing a "lime softening" process without intending it: given your very high CH, this is a GOOD thing. Do not stop! What's happening, apparently, is the high pH + the high TA are continuing to produce calcium particles that your filter is removing. This is GOOD!
So . . . don't add any more muriatic acid, now. Continue cleaning your pool. After you complete the DE test -- assuming the filter 'passes' the test, you can continue to add DE to help the filter remove very fine particles. It will result in more frequent backwashes, however.
NOTE: salt has NOTHING to do with TA, and has no effect on it. WaterMom already gave you the link to the alkalinity page -- you need to read it.
BUT, do NOT try to lower your TA yet; doing so will STOP the CH removal process!
Instead:
1. Complete the process of removing all the debris from your pool; vacuum up calcium dust as needed.
2. Complete the pool equipment form: http://pool9.net/pf-equip-form/ That will help us know how to help you.
3. Keep your chlorine high-ish
4. Test your FILL water, and report those results. You only need to test pH, TA and CH
Last edited by PoolDoc; 06-27-2014 at 11:11 AM. Reason: fix typo
Ok. I will keep at it and do the DE test. BTW, it was SALT I was considering to help with TA, not sand. Just been reading about it making the water feel softer.
Thanks for your help!
8k gal 16x24 oval AG pool; mesh winter cover, well water fill, Premium Blue 22 sand filter, Premium Blue 1.5hp 1spd pump operating 24/7. PF=15
I meant "salt"; I typed "sand".
Salt will make the water feel differently; many people describe the difference as "softer" or "slick". BUT, that has nothing to do with TA.
Ok. That makes more sense. Yes, there are little white particles all through the water. Must be the calcium.
PH tested at 7.8 using your method. Good.
I filled out the pool equipment form.
FILL water:
PH 7.6
TA 325
CH 375
Need to go to the store to get DE for that test. Still going....
.
Last edited by PoolDoc; 06-27-2014 at 11:44 AM. Reason: enable signature
8k gal 16x24 oval AG pool; mesh winter cover, well water fill, Premium Blue 22 sand filter, Premium Blue 1.5hp 1spd pump operating 24/7. PF=15
Bookmarks