You need to read the CC reading without letting it sit, so yours is fine.
Just use the 10mL sample instead of the 25mL. It will make your testing reagents last longer. You'll multiply the number of drops by 0.5 instead of 0.2.
You need to read the CC reading without letting it sit, so yours is fine.
Just use the 10mL sample instead of the 25mL. It will make your testing reagents last longer. You'll multiply the number of drops by 0.5 instead of 0.2.
Excellent. Thanks Watermom. Looks like I wasted 5 drops!
Sharkline Escalade RTR 24' x 54" Round AGP; OptiFlo 2-speed pump; Pentair PLM-100 Cartridge Filter; Hayward 250FDN Heater; Taylor K-2006; AquaIlluminator Return
Looks like Watermom agrees with my interpretation yeah!!! (And I recall reading that with the OTO test kit, one can guesstimate the CC level in the first three minutes of a TC test i.e. (?) if the solution turns dark yellow before becoming lighter there is some CC, not sure that can be used to infer how much though.)
So to get rid of CC, do we chlorinate the pool to 10 times FC level? Or is there another method?
In-ground 14K-gallon Pebble Sheen outdoor pool with 4-jet spa, Taylor K2006C testing kit, bleach chlorination, baking soda + muriatic acid for TA/pH adjustments, Hayward Ecostar SP3400VSP, Hayward H400FDN heater, Hayward DE6020 60-sqft DE filter, pressure-side Polaris 380 cleaner.
If you have a CC reading over 0.5ppm, you need to shock the pool. How high depends on your CYA level. More about the CYA/Chlorine relationship can be found here:> http://pool9.net/cl-cya/
In-ground 14K-gallon Pebble Sheen outdoor pool with 4-jet spa, Taylor K2006C testing kit, bleach chlorination, baking soda + muriatic acid for TA/pH adjustments, Hayward Ecostar SP3400VSP, Hayward H400FDN heater, Hayward DE6020 60-sqft DE filter, pressure-side Polaris 380 cleaner.
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