This site is the best!

[rutntutn]

Here's my story - 32,000 gal pool - Because of major leak in return i didn't run pump much during winter and also let CYA get over 250 (no one ever explained not to keep adding pucks & stabilizer) so nothing was working to keep pool from turning into a mess (read dark green).Leak is fixed now. Long story short, after finding this site, draining about 1/2 the water and adding massive amounts of chlorine, water is now blue but still cloudy. Have brand new Pentair cartridge filter (changed from sand filter) and am cleaning it daily (pressure increases about 8lbs in 24 hours as it is cleaning out dead stuff) - CYA now close to 100 - ph about 7.6 - Chlorine still around 20-25 but coming down as I have quit adding any more - everything else in normal range. What would be next step to get water clear? Will filter do it on its own or do I need to add Floc or clarifier to precipitate the process?

thx
rutntutn

[Watermom]

Don't add floc or clarifier at this point. Give the filter time to do its job.

--What kind of test kit do you have?
--What are you using as your source of chlorine?
--What kind of pool is this?

Re-post with requested info and then somebody here can try and help.

Welcome to the Pool Forum!

[rutntutn]

Basic test kit and strips but have been going to Leslie's twice a week for complete testing. Have used a combination of liquid and powdered shock to get to this point (no additional stabilizer, of course).

I have in ground, gunite, approx. 32,000 gal pool almost 20 years old that will need a complete rework soon but trying to hold off cause it ain't gonna be cheap :?)
Color this morning is still good and can almost see the second step, so filter is working good ( I have been spraying dead algae out of cartridges every day and will do a cleaning solution soak next since there is some slime building on the cartridge fin membranes) I will hold off on the floc for now as you suggested as I am seeing improvement everyday. Hope to vacuum bottom this weekend and replace a little more water to get the CYA under 100 where it's at now.

Thx in advance for your help

[Watermom]

You need a good test kit. Pool store testing is notorious for being more concerned with selling your chemicals than being accurate.

The test kit that we think is by far the best is the Taylor K2006 or 2006C (better buy). Not available locally but you can get it through this link that takes you to Amazon: http://pool9.net/tk/

But, in the meantime, go to Walmart and see if they have the HTH 6-Way drops-based kit (no test strips!) and get that. If they don't, get an OTO/Phenol Red kit (yellow and red drops) instead. Use it to test and then post your numbers.

What were the ingredients of the powdered shock that you used?

Sounds like your filter is working.

Repost with requested info and then someone here can try and help you.

(Until you registration is completed, you won't be able to see the rest of the forum while you are logged in. So, copy that link and then paste it into a browser window after you log out.)

[PoolDoc]

+ Definitely, you need to get a kit. Depending on your current conditions, you could get into calcium / alkalinity problems using cal hypo.

+ Your chlorine levels need to be at 10 ppm OR higher if there's the slightest trace of live algae left. See http://pool9.net/cl-cya

+ membership updated.

[rutntutn]

Thx Doc