using the bbb chart

[sobrien2]

no just topped off after the winter. I have been running it 24 hrs a day for 2 weeks water is very clear, but after first shock dirt appeared so I vac'ed and shocked again, white dust appeared where the dirt was. I have about 40 tablets, unwrapped. Pool store yesterday said cya was 90. Shock was cal hypo. Yes had small areas of algae that i vac'ed up prior to shocking. Borax has kept the ph level at 7.4 till I added bleach

[Watermom]

Does your kit test alkalinity and calcium hardness? If so, what are the readings?

[sobrien2]

tc is 10, hardness 240,cya,60, alk-90, went and got a k-2005.

[Watermom]

The K2005 kit is missing one very important test that the K2006 has which is the one that allows you to test chlorine readings past 5ppm. But, like I told you in the post above, you can buy the add-on kit for that test which is the K1515. (Link above. Highly unlikely that you'll find it anywhere locally.)

Glad to hear that your CYA is 60 and not 90. Actually, 60 is a very good reading. Here is the dilemma and something that Ben and I have discussing recently. You have a container with 40 unwrapped trichlor tabs. Even though you don't need any more CYA (and those tabs have it in them), it is not a good idea to store unwrapped trichlor from one season to the next. And, you also cannot throw it away. (In fact, that may be illegal.)

So the problem becomes -- what to do with them? Do you have a friend with a pool who you can give them to? If not, it might be best to just go ahead and use them up and just run a high CYA / high chlorine pool. In case you didn't know, the higher your CYA is, the higher the chlorine levels have to be to keep algae at bay and to keep your pool sanitized. You can read more about the CYA and chlorine connection on our Best Guess Chlorine chart either in my signature below or at this link: http://pool9.net/cl-cya/

Now, there is nothing wrong with having a HiC2 pool. In fact one advantage is that it allows you to add chlorine less frequently than those who have low CYA pools. The disadvantage is that if you get algae, it takes higher chlorine levels to kill it.

For now, while you are trying to clear the pool, keep your chlorine at shock level (20ppm) by using bleach. Each evening, test and add enough bleach to get the chlorine back to 20. In a 10K gallon pool, each of the 121-oz. jugs of 8.25% bleach will add about 8ppm of chlorine, and each quart will add 2ppm. You can use those as a reference to help you figure out doses of bleach to add.

Hope this helps.

[sobrien2]

the 2005 does allow you to go above .5, you yous the different increments on the side of the tester then multiply by 2 or 5 depending on which scale you use. I know the dpd method is easier. I have been in the water business for over 25 years but when I retired I lost my access to the DPD packs. I have to say pool water is much harder to deal with than city water..pool is very clear so do i need to keep cl level above 10ppm? do i need to take the tablets out, I have no issue putting them to use elseware. How long do I need to keep at shock level? Thanks

[Watermom]

Do this. Test the water this evening. Then, add enough bleach to take the chlorine back up to 20ppm. Tomorrow morning within an hour or so of sunrise, test the chlorine again and post your readings. We are looking for overnight chlorine loss. If you lose no more than 1ppm of chlorine overnight, then you can let the chlorine drift down and keep it between 5-10 all the time. If you drop lower, you risk algae. But, if you do lose more than 1ppm overnight, then you continue to keep it at shock level until you do pass the overnight test.

If you don't use the tablets in your pool, what other uses are you talking about. I'm curious.

[sobrien2]

added 121 l of bleach. I will test again in the morning. Is there no need to float tablets with this method? if not I have a neighbor that has a blow up pool that will use the tabs.