Open Green and Cloudy & No CYA

[Winicott]

Here is the resource page:
http://www.poolsolutions.com/gd/spri...-problems.html
Problem #2 item 4.
"Initially, your stabilizer-eating bacteria and biofilms will STILL be active in your pool. So, do NOT use stabilized chlorine to start with -- you could end up making your problem worse, faster than you make it better. This means NO dichlor powder. Use bleach or calcium hypochlorite only."

I will have to take a pic of the #50 bucket of the 1" tablets I saw. I may have read the ingredients wrong.

The bleach I have is 12.5% concentration. I buy it from the feed store. I get deposit bottles. When I come back with the bottles I get my $6 back. I understand he fills them there himself. The chemical company is Funshine. They are 1 gallon bottles. With the deposit taken into account it is about the same price as the 10% Pool Store For pool only bleach, but everything at the feed store is cheaper. Accessories are less and I can also get the dog food and the chicken feed there as well. It is win win for me. If there is a good argument for the 10% bleach with the throw away bottles I would love to hear it. Even if my 12.5% ends up being the same concentration as the 10% bottles I would not mind since they use the bottles over and over all summer instead of throwing them away.

[Watermom]

Your 12.5% bleach is just fine.

It was late when you added bleach so you may have not had time but when you are trying to determine if you have a chlorine demand, we like to be able to measure overnight chlorine loss. The best way to do this is to add chlorine when the sun is off the pool in the evening. Then, a couple hours later test so you'll have FC and CC numbers to compare with the next morning's readings which should be taken within an hour of sunrise.

[Winicott]

I will do that tonight and tomorrow morning.

My first reading was .6ppm, but 1.5 hour after sunrise, but no time to get full FC reading. I added a gallon of bleach, just to keep the pressure on the algae, but I figure it will be gone by lunch.

I hope that since there was SOME chlor this morning that I an not dealing with the larger issue.

[Watermom]

By the way, what is your wall height on your pool? I think you may be overestimating the volume of your pool. I'm assuming it is 54" (same as mine ) which means your water level is around 50 inches. This puts your volume at more like 18K gallons. I was trying to determine how much chlorine a gallon of 12.5% bleach would add to your pool (assuming it is that strength) and need an accurate volume to do so.

[Winicott]

We had this same discussion last year. Here is the post link.

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...075#post110075

TLR- I have a deep end that is about 5 1/2', sometimes deeper when the water runs high after it rains a lot.

I use a chlorine calculator that I thought I found on here. It is an .exe and it calculates in L as opposed to gallons. If you have one you like to use then let me know. From what I can tell if I want to increase 10 ppm then I need to add 6L of chlorine.

[PoolDoc]

.
http://pool9.net/bleach-calc/

May not work with Windows 8, unless you run it in a compatibility mode.

[Watermom]

We had this same discussion last year. Here is the post link.

http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...075#post110075

Sorry I didn't remember. We answer thousands of posts on this forum each year and there is no way to keep details straight! You might want to put in your signature --- AG 27' with 5-1/2' deep end. You can edit your signature by clicking on the tab in my signature.

[Winicott]

I never thought you would remember. I just posted to save us the time of going over it again .

FC is 1. CC does not register. I would think that the CC would be high since that means it is bonding with all the stuff I want to kill? Adding bleach now and will check back in an hour.