Pool Pilot Digital 220 unit - Warning Low Amps - Cell? and Bad Temp Sense

[PoolDoc]

Thanks, Sean.

[pacsman]

New information, I replaced the tri-sensor and the cell but now have a different message.
I went with the RC-52 (SC-60) which is the largest my unit will accept. Purchased from saltpoolguys.com.
The tri-sensor was bad and the new one is reporting a temp of 82 degrees which is what the thermometer in the pool is reading.
Salt is reported at 3300ppm which is what the old sensor reported and the same as the pool store measured.
I set the control unit back to power level 1 and changed the cell type to SC-60.
I still have a flashing red light on the control unit and the message now reads "Warning check/clean cell?"
The cell is clean and i dont see anything on any of the blades, all 15 are the same length, Some appear to be newer than others so not sure if the cell may be bad?
when testing the unit I have 17 volts and 2.9 Amps reported on the display.
When i turn the unit on initially, once it runs throught its tests, the purifier states 60% but within about 5 seconds that changes to 48%.
The unit is on and states purifier on 48%

Any thoughts on what could be causing the check/clean cell message?

[BigDave]

I noticed on the first post in this thread that a CYA of 0 is reported. Is that accurate? My understanding is that most SWCG manufacturers recommend a CYA level around 60. I would assume that a SWCG would have a hard time keeping up with the chlorine lost to sunlight.

[pacsman]

I connected with Josh from the saltpoolguys.com site, where I purchased the new cell and tri sensor, concerning the new message I am getting.

After some additional troubleshooting and sharing some pictures of my controller, it appears I have a bad board, specifically 4 of the 6 capacitors are shot and it appears one of the computer chips may have overheated as well.

The board alone is $400+ and the whole controller unit is 600+ and comes with a new cell cable and a two year warranty so I elected to do the whole unit. Awaiting arrival of the unit, should be here Monday, Tuesday at the latest.

At that point I will essentially have a new system and just need to get it back operational. Now if I can just keep the pool stable until I can get this installed the grandbaby can get back in the swim mode.

[PoolDoc]

Sorry for the problems you're having.

But I have question: do you know whether the board problems were caused by a voltage surge?

The reason I ask, we're seeing a number of VS pumps dying because of surges, possibly from thunderstorms. Now that Intermatic has marketed a pool warranted surge protector, I've been recommending that pool owners with VS pumps install one. I hadn't really thought about whether SWCG might also need protection. I would guess that the transformer and power supply might offer protection not present in a VS pump - but I'm only guessing.

So . . . back to my question: do you have any idea what caused the board failure?

Thanks!

[Watermom]

You can keep the pool stable by using bleach until you get your unit up and running. For reference to help you figure out how much to add, in a 28K gallon pool, each 121-oz. jug of Walmart's generic 8.25% bleach will add about 2.8ppm of chlorine to the pool. I don't know what your CYA reading is but if you look at the chart at this link, it will tell you what range you need to keep your chlorine in based on that reading and you can dose with bleach accordingly.

http://pool9.net/cl-cya/

[pacsman]

It's been ten days since I received the new control unit, installed it and got it up and running. The pool is looking good, water is crystal clear and everything appears to be fine.

To answer a previous question asked on this thread regarding a power surge, yes. It does appear that it was a power surge which took out at least the control unit and possible the tri-sensor. Although, everything is connected correctly, properly grounded and there were no blown fuses but I have seen lightning strikes do some very strange things such as pin holes in boots and oil cans. Wondering if I can file any of this expense against my home owner's policy?

I do have some questions as I want to be sure I am using my new system correctly to extend the life of it as much as possible. My current readings and water test results from 6/21/14 are below. Any recommendations to my questions below would be welcome.

20'x40', 3' to 8' in ground Grecian shaped pool, 28,000 gal, 4 returns, main drain and skimmer, sand filter (new this year - replaced DE filter)
New Cell = SC-60
New Control Unit
Software Version 4.4
Power Level = 1 (Factory setting)
Cell reverse 4 hours (Factory setting)
20 Volts, 5.0 Amps
Purifier on at 75%
Salt 3500 (pool store tested at 3500)

FAC=4.0
TAC=4.0
Actual water temp is at 83 degrees (verified with thermometer and MM temp probe so I adjusted the unit down 3 degrees to match that)
Calcium Hardness = 200
Cyanuric Acid = 60 (recommended range is 60-80 in the manual)
Total Alkalinity = 120
pH = 7.8
Copper = 0
Iron = 0
Phosphates = 0

Should I adjust the Purifier % down manually or increase the power level and see if the unit makes the adjustment? Will increasing the power level cause the cell to wear quicker, I assume having the unit run at anything over 50% will decrease the life of the cell?

I am running the unit 16 hours per day, 6:30 am to 10:30 pm. Is this too much/too little? How do I know other than the FAC and TAC level is good? Should I change the time of day the unit is running, i.e. start it earlier in the day and shut it off earlier in the evening or vice versa?

[pacsman]

Thanks. I will check out the link. I have wondered if using bleach was ok to do or not. Have had some say yes and some say no. Any particular way to dispense it i.e. dilute it first or just pour it in without splashing it on the liner?

I had some shock so I used that every couple of days and got lucky with the weather having some very overcast days which I'm sure helped somewhat.

[Watermom]

It is certainly ok to use bleach. No need to dilute it first. You can either pour it in front of a return jet or directly into the skimmer while the pump is running which is what I do. (By the way, if you ever have a need to shock the pool, turn your SWCG off and just use bleach to do so. Using the SWCG on the superchlorinate setting simply ages your cell faster and limits the life of it.)

I'll let someone else advise you on your specific questions about your unit.

[PoolDoc]

You'd have to check your insurance to see if voltage surge damage is covered; I would doubt it, simple because the nebulous nature of that claim would expose insurance companies to fraud. (I'm not saying you are acting fraudulently; just that surge coverage would make it easy for fraudsters!)

What you should do is install surge protection -- especially now that there is a pool rated model with insurance(!):

Intermatic PS3000 Pool Surge Protector

However PoolSean (Auto Pilot service manager) has told me that the Auto Pilot units contain surge protection, which may now need replacing on yours. I'm going to ask him to check on this.