A quick SWCG question

[Pappy]

You are going to need the Taylor K-2006 test kit. As far as I know, it's available online only. There's a link to the Amazon store in Pool Doc's blue signature box.

[Watermom]

Also a link in my signature below.

[bradburyesqu]

Well I'll have to order the taylor kit bot for now I got the HTH kit drop kit from walmart and that changed things a lot.

TC is between .5 and 1 PPM
PH is 7.5 (but I was aerating while I went to the store.)
TA is 300
Total Hardness is 340.

What a difference the right tools make.

The SWCG unit I bought produces Chlorine, Ozone and a small amount of copper. My understanding is that with the Ozone you can keep the Chlorine PPM lower. The manual suggests between 1 and 3 PPM. Should I still bring the pool up to 5 PPM first and then start using the unit? Or should I stop at 3?

[Pappy]

Your "cyanuric acid" level determines what chlorine level you need. Take a look at the links, then let us know what your CYA level is. Then we'll be able to give you guidance on your chlorine level.

Cyanuric acid (CYA) test
http://youtu.be/8whkC5WtS8g

http://www.taylortechnologies.com/Ch...P?ContentID=44

================================================== =

You do understand that copper in swimming pools turns blond hair green? Copper is an algaecide that you probably don't need. What is the make and model of your SWCG?

[bradburyesqu]

It is the Intex Ozone Saltwater Sanitizing System model zs8110. It can handle 1500 - 4000 GPH. I wasn't looking for the Ozone generator, but Walmart had it on sale and it was less expensive then the normal salt water unit.

My understanding was that copper only stained or turned hair green in high concentration. Am I mistaken?

As far as the Stabolizor, I was trying to get it to 20 PPM the HTH test can't test for less then 30 PPM. I can add more if it is necessary. But it I couldn't get a reading with the test.

So the Ozone has nothing to do with the amount of chlorine I need? I know that ozone can't replace chlorine but it was my understanding that it was a much better oxidizer and if you had both you could run your pool at significantly lower chlorine PPM and still be fine, because in standard set ups most of the chlorine went to oxidation. Am I completely confused here?

[Pappy]

What stabilizer are you using? The owners manual says a max of 50ppm CYA (Cyanuric Acid). Running at that level will make the SWCG last longer because your chlorine will last longer. Also, don't use the boost setting, shock with bleach instead. If your stabilizer is around 20, you want to add enough bleach so that chlorine level doesn't go below 2ppm by the time the sun is off the pool. If your CYA is at 50ppm, you need to try to keep chlorine levels between 3 and 6. Watermom suggested that you might disconnect the copper electrode to eliminate the copper production.

This page discusses why higher CYA levels require higher chlorine, and why this forum generally, but not always, recommends CYA levels between 30 and 50ppm.
http://poolsolutions.com/gd/best-gue...e-chart.html#a

I'm going to let someone else talk about ozone because I don't know enough about it to have an intelligent discussion.

[Watermom]

For most pools, we recommend around 40-50ppm for a CYA level but for pools with a SWCG, you need to follow the manufacturer's recommendation for the specific CYA level for that unit.

[PoolDoc]

So the Ozone has nothing to do with the amount of chlorine I need? I know that ozone can't replace chlorine but it was my understanding that it was a much better oxidizer and if you had both you could run your pool at significantly lower chlorine PPM and still be fine, because in standard set ups most of the chlorine went to oxidation. Am I completely confused here?

Yes, confused by deceptive marketing.

Ozone reacts destructively with chlorine -- it is worse than useless, applied to outdoor chlorinated pools without special contact chambers and a dechlorination / rechlorination process.

[bradburyesqu]

Well I guess I lied. I said this would be a quick question...

[PoolDoc]