High Phosphate 2500 - Options?

[waterbear]

Most sequesterants are based on derivatives of phosphonic acid. They can add phosphates to the pool from what I underatand. This is usually not a problems since it is very rare that phosphates are the limiting factor in algae growth. The CC are coming from nitrogen compounds like ammonia, urea, and organic nitrogen compounds, not phosphates as far as I know. Phosphates are measured in PPB and over about 175 ppb is the danger level, supposidely. I have over 1000ppb in my pool (measured with a salt water aquarium test kit that has a bit more accuracy then the one at the pool store where I work. My aqauarium kit uses a comparator block and better resolution, the one at the store a paper color card.

[cheshamjim]

Thanks for your reply, Waterbear.

I am understanding from your comments that it isn't necessary to worry about the high phosphate content, so I won't (no more Sea Klear for me).

Regarding the chlorimine problem I have, I am adding about 6 lb of granulated dichloro shock on a daily basis (I'm trying to use up what I've already paid for at the pool store) in order to keep my FC at a high level. I have no way of knowing how far above 5 ppm it might be, since my test kits (DPD #1 and OTO) only read to 5 ppm. I'm wondering if I could dilute my water sample with a measured amount of tap water to get a reading that shows on the color comparator, them multiply by the dilution amount. For instance, if I add one tablespoon of pool water to two cups of of tap water, I would have a dilution of 1:32. If the diluted sample read 1 ppm, them actual FC content could be derived by multiplying 2 ppm X 33. Do you think this would work? I need to find someway to quantify high FC content until my RS234 kit arrives.

I want to achieve "breakpoint" chlorination and I understand this requires raising and maintaining (for one week) FC levels that are 5 to 10 times the chloramine levels. In my most recent test at the pool dealer, my CC was 3.2. I guess that means I need to maintain FC for one week at 16 to 32 ppm. Am I thinking correctly?

I've drifted pretty far from from the phosphate issue, but that's what started all this. If I'm incorrectly posting, I'm sure one of the Super Moderators will let me know.

Anyway, this forum and PoolSolutions.com have moved me from very deep dispair only one week ago to where I feel pretty darned confident that I can get things right at last without spending yet another huge lump of $$$.

My best regards to all who help folks like me. I have learned so much in such a short period of time.

[aylad]

What is your CYA level? Using dichlor or trichlor is driving it up, and depending on how high it was to start, you may have to go higher than you think with the Cl to get rid of the chloramines.

Janet

[mbar]

you can use the dilution method if you use distilled water:

Here's the Jen-You-Whine CarlD Shot Glass Method!

1) Get a shot glass (like you use to mix drinks).
2) Get a gallon of steam distilled water--most mass-market drug chains stock it, and many supermarkets.
3) Mix one shot glass full of pool water with one shot glass full of the distilled in a clean container (like a Pyrex measuring cup).
4) Fill your test cell to the line with the mixture. Add your drops and take the reading.
5) Whatever you read, double it. If it says "3ppm", you have 6ppm. If it reads "5ppm", you have 10ppm.
6) If it's STILL seems like the chorine's too high to read, go to step seven....
7) Mix 1 shot of pool water with TWO shots of distilled water, and re-run the test using that.
8) Now TRIPLE your reading--if it reads "3", it's 9. If it reads "5", it's 15ppm.
9) Going beyond two shots of distilled to 1 shot of pool water is possible (3 shots, quadruple your reading) but you lose accuracy fast. Still if it's the best way of reading chlorine, then you have to do it.

CAVEAT: ONLY use this method to measure chlorine levels. Do not use it for the other tests you run, and do not use it with the FAS-DPD powder test--that goes to 50 to 100ppm of Free Chlorine anyway.

There you have it!

[CarlD]

Hey! That sounds mighty familiar!

(Glad I didn't have to type it again! )

PS: I am flattered!

[waterbear]

I am a BIG supporter of the patented 'CarlD shotglass method"!

[CarlD]

10) Rinse glass nicely
11) Fill with favorite spirit
12) Savor spirit while admiring beautiful pool!

[waterbear]

T

I have no way of knowing how far above 5 ppm it might be, since my test kits (DPD #1 and OTO) only read to 5 ppm. I'm wondering if I could dilute my water sample with a measured amount of tap water to get a reading that shows on the color comparator, them multiply by the dilution amount.

You can diliute and in fact it is a standard procedure with both OTO and DPD testing (DPD bleaches out at high levels of chlorine) but I would not go over a 4:1 dilution. With each dilution you lose accuracy. Easiest way is to use a shot glass or some similar measure and dilute with distilled water.....
for a 1(pool water):1(distilled water) dilutiion multiply reading by 2
for a 1(pool water):2(distilled water_ dilution multiply reading by 3
for a 1:3 multiply by 4
for a 1:4 multiply by 5

for how high you need to go with your chlorine it is somewhat dependant on your cya levels ....see this post for details on how high to bring your chlorine up to shock effectively and get rid of the CC.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=365