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    Default Re: Diluted ph test

    @Dave: that's not quite right, but I can't explain it well either. I'd ask Chem_Geek, but I don't think anyone would understand his explanation.

    I'll try to get my son (bio-chem degree) to write an explanation that we can all understand.

    @ Eric: I can't explain it, but I have verified it with a digital (and calibrated) pH meter. I should add, this ONLY works with distilled water; if you use tap water, the result will be closer to what you intuitively expected.

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    Default Re: Diluted ph test

    Ok, I'll take your word for it that it works. It was purely a matter of curiosity anyway. I would still like to see an explanation if you can get your hands on one though... 'Cuz now I'm even more curious!
    -Eric B. 16x32 rect 14,364 gal AG (Intex Ultra Frame); 14 in sand filter; 1 HP 2800 GPH pump; 8 hrs; Taylor K-2006c, utility water, debris cover
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    chem geek is offline PF Supporter Whibble Konker chem geek 4 stars chem geek 4 stars chem geek 4 stars chem geek 4 stars
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    Default Re: Diluted ph test

    Diluting to change the pH range is tricky and not very effective for two reasons. First is that pH is a logarithmic scale which means that it takes a lot of dilution to move the scale. Every factor of 2 dilution using distilled or deionized water would move the pH of unbuffered water by 0.3 units towards 7.0.

    However most water is buffered and dilution barely budges the pH. TA is a measure of some of that pH buffering. The pH in buffered water is largely determined by the ratio of the two chemical species of the buffer and diluting the water simply reduces both concentrations equally so the ratio remains constant and the pH essentially remains unchanged. Now if you were to dilute using buffered water, then you can change this ratio relationship and move the pH, but the calculations to figure out what the heck went on become somewhat complicated.

    If you want to move pH to get it into a range you can measure, then you can use acid or base demand drops. You can then calculate what the original pH was if you know the buffering water parameters (mostly TA, but also CYA and borates). To a large extent, it's irrelevant since if the pH is that far out of range you just need to add acid or base to get it into range.

    The only quick and dirty indicator for an extreme pH is the TA test where an immediate red means the pH is at or below roughly 4.5. You can also use wide-range pH test strips if you really want to know a very out-of-range pH.
    15.5'x32' rectangle 16K gal IG concrete pool; 12.5% chlorinating liquid by hand; Jandy CL340 cartridge filter; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; 8hrs; Taylor K-2006 and TFTestkits TF-100; utility water; summer: automatic; winter: automatic; ; PF:7.5

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