Argggghhhh!!!

[no1ford]

Ok-so I have finally cleared up my gross green color after 1 full week of high chlorine and iron out in my water. NOW............... I have still a slight green tint and it is cloudy-I can no longer see the bottom.

My chlorine is still high and it was easy to see the bottom until yesterday

FC-10 +
Ph-7.8
Alk-120
Cya-30-50

What do I do now?

[no1ford]

Anyone? Please

[Bleach=Chlorine?]

Is 10+ over your test? I think shock in the 30-50 CYA range is like 15 ppm. I would keep cl in that range, run the filter 24/7 and backwash as needed. Make sure your return is clear water otherwise you may have an issue inside the sand filter that is allowing matter to escape back into the pool.

[no1ford]

Is 10+ over your test? I think shock in the 30-50 CYA range is like 15 ppm. I would keep cl in that range, run the filter 24/7 and backwash as needed. Make sure your return is clear water otherwise you may have an issue inside the sand filter that is allowing matter to escape back into the pool.

I actually do not have a sand filter, I have an intex 18x48 metal sided with the filter that came with it.-the man at the pool atore said to use a flocculant. Any comments

[no1ford]

any suggestions would be appreciated

[CarlD]

If you didn't use the flocculent, don't. He's not addressing your problem. Floc is for particles too small for the filter to catch.

Your pH is too high. Maybe. Add acid (dry or muriatic) to get it down to 7.3-7.5 but no higher than 7.6. Chlorine loses effectiveness at higher pH levels. Unfortunately, at high chlorine levels, most pH tests are inaccurate. Usually, to run the test properly, a chlorine neutralizer must be added first.

You need FC to be at 15ppm. If you are using test strips, you need to get a drop-based kit. Unfortunately, kits that go to 50ppm use the FAS-DPD test and these are tougher to come by. The best is the PoolSolutions.com kit, followed by both the Taylor 2006 kit and the Leslie's Chlorine FAS-DPD Service Test Kit. These should all have the chlorine neutralizer already in the pH test.

In the meantime, the Walmart 5-way HTH drop kit, if available, is the next best alternative, but only measures to 5ppm of total chlorine. But if you dilute the pool water with distilled water you can measure to higher levels.
The CarlD Shot Glass Method: Take an ordinary shot glass and use it to measure one shot of pool water. Now measure out two shots of steam distilled water and mix. Use this mix in your test cell and triple the measurements. So if your Walmart kit measures to 5ppm of chlorine, you have 15ppm.

I think you need to keep hammering your pool with bleach for a while longer. You probably need to replace your Intex cartridge, too. Patience and persistence.

[no1ford]

ok here are my levels-
ph-6.8
fc-3ppm
alk-120ppm
stabalizer- 0

I have super cloudy water resulting from killing algea and having copper. two week deal-clear up until 2 days ago. told to use floc by pool store-haven't gotten yet. do you think I should leave my filter off for the day and let all dirt fall to bottom to see if pool water clears? Or will leaving the filter off shoot me back another day?

18x 48 intex metal frame pool

[JohnT]

ok here are my levels-
ph-6.8
fc-3ppm
alk-120ppm
stabalizer- 0

I have super cloudy water resulting from killing algea and having copper. two week deal-clear up until 2 days ago. told to use floc by pool store-haven't gotten yet. do you think I should leave my filter off for the day and let all dirt fall to bottom to see if pool water clears? Or will leaving the filter off shoot me back another day?

18x 48 intex metal frame pool

You need to get your pH up. If the cloudiness falls to the bottom, how will you get it out of the pool? Most small pools can't use a real vacuum, and the leaf vacs will just blow it through the bag, so I don't see you having much choice but to leave it running. Maybe even brush it to stir up what has settled.

[no1ford]

ok on ph-will get some ph plus and what about floc-do you recommened it?

[no1ford]

my water looks like blue milk!