OK, but your sig line says "23k gal AG pool" so I figured either the AG or 23K had to be wrong.
Ok: Looks like you're testing FC and CC with the 25mil line, and every drop counting .2ppm. Don't. Use the 10mil line where every drop counts .5ppm--it will save your reagents and you don't need anymore accuracy than .5. Most of us never use the 25mil line.
Once you get pH down, test FC again and CC again. Don't bother with T/A, CH or even CYA. T/A will be lower, no problem. CH is irrelevant with a vinyl pool--assuming it's vinyl. If it's not you can worry about CH later.
Then you're going to want to raise your FC to at least 20ppm and keep it there. You can use bleach or, if you want, cal-hypo powder. If your pool is hard-sided, not vinyl, cal-hypo's a good choice because you'll want to get CH to 200-40ppm eventually. Do not use Di-Chlor powder or Tri-chlor tabs as both add CYA and yours is high enough.
Once you get FC to 20ppm, you'll want to follow the standard algae fighting procedure laid out here: Test FC 3x a day, especially after the sun passes in the evening, and add chlorine to bring it back to 20ppm.
You'll want to vacuum the dead algae to waste once a day, and brush the walls and bottom once a day as well. You'll lots of POPP--"pool owner patience and persistence".
If you use bleach, 1 gallon of 8.25% adds about 3.5/3.6ppm of chlorine to your 23k pool. 1 gallon of 6% adds 2.6ppm of FC. Adjust accordingly. Never can remember exactly how many pounds of Cal-hypo powder you need to increase FC.
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