Hmmmm... still unable to edit my profile.
Hmmmm... still unable to edit my profile.
12.3 K gal in-ground, gunite pool, Hayward C-5025 cartridge 150 gpm, Century Centurion 2HP 3450 rpm, Polaris 360
Nah, I didn't use liters but I do not know what I plugged in to the calculator to get that result! Duh. Must've still been asleep. Sorry 'bout that!
To Edit your signature ---- click on that tab in my signature below.
EDIT -- i realized what I did wrong. 80 oz. would be 2.5 of the 3-quart jugs of bleach. My brain apparently was not yet switched on this morning and I accidentally plugged in 2.5 gallons and 8% instead of 8.25!Mystery solved!
Okay, got the sig edited. Please let me know if there is any additional info needed, or any questions about what I put in there. Fingers crossed, but I think the algae problem will be under control in a day or two.
So next issue for me is CYA. That little test is a pain. It's my understanding that 3" tablets will add stabilizer. That is what I have always used for chlorination, prior to discovering BBB. I probably still have 20-30 lbs left over from last season. Can I use these to up my CYA level, once I'm completely finished with the algae battle? Or do you recommend something else?
12.3 K gal in-ground, gunite pool, Hayward C-5025 cartridge 150 gpm, Century Centurion 2HP 3450 rpm, Polaris 360
Trichlor tabs are stabilized meaning that they have CYA in them. For every 10ppm of chlorine they add, they will also add 6ppm of CYA. So, you can use the tabs for awhile and then when you get your CYA where you want it, discontinue them and switch to a non-stabilized form of chlorine like bleach. BUT....... Make sure that your tabs have NO copper in them! You don't want copper in your pool! Contrary to popular belief, it is copper and not chlorine that stains pool surfaces and turns light-colored hair green!
Thanks. I will check the label to see what's in there when I get home tonight. I think the ones I have now came from Sam's Club.
12.3 K gal in-ground, gunite pool, Hayward C-5025 cartridge 150 gpm, Century Centurion 2HP 3450 rpm, Polaris 360
The pucks I have are 99% trichlor. The label also states 90% available chlorine, and there is no mention of copper.
There is a lot of info on here regarding chlorine and most of the other chemicals, but I'm having trouble finding posts and articles that discuss CYA. I would be most appreciative if you could point me to a few. I really have read a lot and looked pretty hard, but I probably just missed them. Specifically, I am trying to determine how much impact each of these pucks will have on the CYA level and the pH of my pool.
My FC dropped 2ppm overnight, so better than Sunday night but not quite fully done fighting algae. Yesterday was the warmest day of the year so far in Houston - it touched 90 - so chlorine level was all the way down to 4.5 by the time I got home from work around 7 PM. Since I am gone for so long during the day, and because my CYA is low, I went ahead and put my floater in the water this morning along with the morning addition of bleach needed to push FC back up to 12. So I would like to calculate what impact this will have. I will also test my pH tonight and begin moving it back up to the 7.4-7.5 range.
12.3 K gal in-ground, gunite pool, Hayward C-5025 cartridge 150 gpm, Century Centurion 2HP 3450 rpm, Polaris 360
For each ppm of chlorine added with dichlor or trichlor, you'll add nearly a ppm of stabilizer. With trichlor it's a bit less, with dichlor a bit more.
Regarding the relationship between chlorine and CYA, read the "Best Guess" page linked in my signature.
PoolDoc / Ben
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