types of fittings for pump/filter

[zmanh]

I am brand new to pool care/maintenance and had a few questions.

The pool has been unused for about 2 years and was poorly covered and full of leaves/algae. I have removed as much as possible w/net. I estimate it is approx. 25,000 gallons and plan on adding a lot of shock. But first I need to replace the cover on the pump, after shocking and vacuuming I guess I will need to change out the sand. I suspect it has been 5 years or more since that was done. I am going to have to cut most of the piping and would like to replace the fittings with a type that can be easily removed in the future. Can I use the hub type rubber fittings that are normally used on plumbing drains and secured with hose clamps or are these not meant to be under pressure? If not, what do you recommend? The hose going from the pump to the filter is the flexible type and I can't think of any way to secure this unless I use hose clamps or glue in place permanently.

Thanks for the info. on the forum. It has been a big help to me.

[PoolDoc]

I wouldn't replace the sand just because it's been 5 years -- sand can occasionally get all gummed up, and it's often blown out of the filter by over-large pumps, but it doesn't really wear out. If you DO replace it, it would be better to do so after you've cleaned up the goo.

The Fernco couplings you are talking about can sometimes be used on the SUCTION side, but not on the pressure side. You need full blown PVC unions on the pressure side.

If the address you gave is correct you have an in-ground pool, and normally the piping from pump to filter on IG pools is hard PVC. I'll post links below of appropriate items.

[zmanh]

Doc, thanks for the info. especially regarding the sand. I will wait and see on that. I was able to unscrew the pump housing from the pvc union and attach the new one w/out any major changes. So that worked out well. But now I have a crack in the strainer body. Any thoughts on using water weld or other similar method to repair crack. The replacement part is $85 so hoping to safe a few bucks or at least attempt to.
Zman

[PoolDoc]

What "strainer body"?

[zmanh]

The black pot attached to the motor housing. Part #35-5300 on the Pentair Challenger pump. BTW, my pump/filter sit about 4' below the skimmer level so mostly gravity fed, so the pot is not under much pressure.

[PoolDoc]

Usually, the pump strainer pot is not under pressure at all, but under suction. A waterproof epoxy, applied carefully is likely to solve the problem . . . as long as the crack does not extend to any of the threads or the lid.

This material should work:

Hy-Poxy H-455 Alumfast 6.5 oz Rapid Cure Aluminum Putty Repair Kit @ Amazon

You'll need a die grinder to clean out, and groove, the crack so you can refill it with the epoxy. The 2 grinders below are both cheapo models. The first one used to be sold under the Makita brand, and I used one for years. I currently have the second one, sold under a General Tool brand. But, I've found them adequate for the light duty I've given them. The

TruePower Long Shaft Electric Die Grinder @ Amazon
1/4" Heavy Duty Portable Handheld Die Grinder Sanding Polisher Tool @ Amazon

These 1/4" shaft carbide burrs should also do the job for you. There are some cheaper ones, but they aren't as well rated:

Neiko Tools 8-Piece Double Cut Carbide Rotary Burr Set @ Amazon
Astro Pneumatic 2181 Double Cut Carbide Rotary Burr Set with 1/4" Shank @ Amazon

Of course, you can go pro-grade, and get SGS burrs and a Dewalt die grinder -- but you'll spend $150 more, and probably not get value, unless you have a machine shop at home. My burrs are mostly SGS, but I bought them 20 - 30 years ago, when there weren't reasonable quality lower-priced alternatives.

If you do get the grinder, practice on some similar plastic FIRST. If you press hard, you'll burn, rather than cut, the plastic. Also, plastic tends to clog the burr, so have a carbon steel utility knife handy to clean with. Hold TIGHT to the grinder -- and use a light touch when grinding -- the burr can 'catch' and jerk you or the pump around. Finally, always, always wear safety glasses. This tool WILL put grindings in your eye otherwise, and plastic or aluminum filings are difficult to get out.

BUT . . . learn to use one of these, and it will save you much time and money. Rusted nut? No problem -- grind it off. Tile piece almost fits -- no problem: clamp it and grind it. These burrs will grind hard plastics, all metals except lead, most ceramics. But, SAFETY GLASSES:

DEWALT DPG82-11C Clear Anti-Fog Dual Mold Safety Goggles @ Amazon
Dewalt DPG55-11C Clear Anti-Fog Protective Safety Glasses @ Amazon