20k gal pool in Sol Cal. .....needs to be drained.

[pmaru77]

Good old Leslies did a test on the water and dissolved solids are at 5000. Plus 2 other readings are high. Of course Mr Lesiles said I have to drain the pool and start fresh. It's bee almost 10 years since the last time and first time i've drained the pool, so I'm not surprized. It is taking a lot of muratic acid to get the ph down to where is needs to be, and also I just had to kill the green algie on the sides of the pool by using HD algie killer, and it worked. The algie has been an issue for quite a while. but I had a pool service for 6 years and they took care of it. But now it is on my duties to take control. I've got the water looking real good and no algie at the moment, but it still takes mucho muratic acid to keep it going. I'm planning on ddraining the pool this month because I don't want to wait until the summer and then have a water rationing law squash me. We do have a lot of fiolage around the area and lots of crap gets into the pool over a year....and that cannot be stopped. So, am I on the right track? Cost is about 100 bucks for the water and whatever for the new che=micals.

[BigDave]

You've come to the right place to learn to take control of your pool. You'll need the right tools and you'll need to learn how.

Tools:
Number One Tool - must have: Taylor K-2006 (or K-2006C) FAS-DPD test kit (DPD color match is insufficient)
#2 Tool: OTO, Phenol Red test kit: Quick and cheap for everyday testing. Taylor K-1000 is good, others are adequate.

Education:
Read all you can here on the forum - especially the stickies in the testing, chlorinating, and algae sections (You'll have to log out while you are a trial user).
Read all you can at PoolSolutions.com - especially the Best Guess Chart - it explains the basis for the poolcare method taught here.

Assistance:
We will help you learn to care for your pool. You'll need to tell us about the pool before we can help. Pool water test results(did you order that K-2006 yet?). chemical history - tell us every thing that's gone into the pool (chemical names are way better than product names. Size in gallons or length, width, depth, shape. Pool construction - above or in ground, vinyl liner, plaster, fiberglass. Type of equipment - pump (model and size), filter heater SWCG, skimmers, drains, returns.

If you buy your testkits through the links in the "How to Get the Right Testkits for your Pool " thread if the testing forum, the PoolForum will get coin to keep the lights on.

Beware, draining a pool can be risky.

Whether you refill or not, learning and using the poolcare method taught here will make the pool easier to maintain and more pleasant to own.

Welcome, looking forward to hearing more.

[pmaru77]

I went to "My Profile" and was unable to edit or bring it up. No priviledges? So how do I add the info that is on the bottom of posts.

Eg: "12'x24' oval 7.7K gal AG vinyl pool; ; Hayward S270T sand filter; Hayward EcoStar SP3400VSP pump; hrs; K-2006; PF:16"

I look forward to supporting this site, as I plan on being here as I will be maintaining the pool till I croak, or move. I have an inground kidney type plaster/cement? pool and it was dark blue but now it's several shades of blue,

[pmaru77]

OK, I guess I will list my setup here.

AG, plaster, 20k gal, kidney shaped swimming pool with spa, in San Diego.
Hayward Vac, Nautilus DE filter, Raypak RP2100 gas heater.

[BigDave]

Check out the "* * New Users! READ This FIRST * *" thread, it will explain how to get the sig line and how to get your access "upgraded".

BTW, did your order that K-2006 (or K-2006C) yet?

[PoolDoc]

. . . membership updated; signature info added and enabled.

[pmaru77]

Kit ordered, K-2006. also got the mag stirrer. Won't be here till next week though.

[pmaru77]

Finally got the test kit (K-2006) with the Taylor speedstir.

Pool results: TA 200, pH 7.4, CH too high (stopped drops after about 40), CYA off the charts (high, high, high), didn't check CL

Tap Water results: TA 160, pH 8 (but took 3 drips to change to good), CH 200, CYA off the charts (low, low. low), didn't check CL

I plan on draining in a few days, and need info on what to add when I do change the water.

Note: The pool looks good right now, but I'm still getting a little foam when the water splashes. That is because I added algie killer (from HDepot) to kill the algie stuck on the walls. My intent was to kill the algie before I drain, so as to not get it back when I refill. The water does seem to have color right now, but not sure. I've dumped the pool water about 10years ago, whole pool.

Any other data needed before I dump?

[PoolDoc]

Given your test results, draining and replacing would certainly be the easiest fix. Your fill water appears to be idea, or will be once you drop your pH a bit.

Remember, you'll have no stabilizer at first. If you use tabs to chlorinate, they will (1) add chlorine, (2) add stabilizer, & (3) lower the pH. Since you need all three actions, that would certainly make it easy. But, until you get some stabilizer in the water, the sun will strip chlorine very rapidly. Adding 1/2 gallon of 8% household bleach each EVENING will boost the chlorine enough overnight to 'keep' your pool in good condition.

Be sure to read the 'Best Guess' Cl/CYA relationship page, so you understand the trajectory your Cl levels will need to follow as your CYA rises.

Good luck!

[pmaru77]

OK, since the chlorine tabs take a while to add stabilizer, can I get some stabilizer as opposed to adding liquid chlorine every day (and for how long?)? Unfortunately I only have enough solution to do one more CYA test, I guess I wasted two tests that I (we) pretty much knew the answers to.

Where would I find stabilizer besides Leslies?