This: http://www.lesliespool.com/leslies-c...nular-bags.htm
But that page say 99% while the bag says 55%. Oh jeez... I am afraid I know just enough to get me in trouble around here. Please bear with me while I am still learning.
This: http://www.lesliespool.com/leslies-c...nular-bags.htm
But that page say 99% while the bag says 55%. Oh jeez... I am afraid I know just enough to get me in trouble around here. Please bear with me while I am still learning.
It could be 99% dichlor dihydrate which would be 55% available chlorine. If so, it's fine.
If you're not sure, post the EXACT ingredient names & % you see.
BUT . . . be sure to continue to use bleach, till you know. Don't let your pool go green, while you get answers to your questions!!
I don't have straight bleach, yet. I hope to get to Wal-Mart today to stock up. I gotta use what I got ;-)
That appears to be correct. So after 4# of CYA last night and a 1# bag of dichlor first thing this morning, here are the latest numbers. (and I think I am getting it right, but still need to go get bleach)
Free Chlorine 6.5
Combined Chlorine 0.5
PH 7.2
Total Alkalinity 90
Calcium Hardness 390
CYA (Stabilizer) 50-55
(Copy/Paste from my spreadsheet... sorry)
So I will check it again in the morning and see what, if anything, I lose at night and one more time tomorrow after work to check daylight loss. But I am feeling better about things. Algae seems to be gone (or at least under control) and let's hope I have the persistence to keep this up.
Everything looks OK -- but be careful about using either baking soda (Alk Up) or soda ash (pH Up). With CH = 390, a heavy dose of either will precipitate calcium carbonate. Use borax to raise your pH, and you'll avoid that problem.
Is it something I should address now? As in, go about actively trying to lower CH? Or will it lower over the summer as I replace evaporation or drain from rain? Or should I just be aware of it and switch to borax?
However, for three years I have been dumping Power Powder Plus (Cal-Hypo) in by the truck load. It explains why I never got a handle on things. I just saw it as some generic "shock"... Because I saw shock as shock. It was all the same to me. It's a wonder I am not in a worse place than I am now. A least... WAS... until about a month ago.
No, don't try to remove calcium. It can be done, but it's a pain and not necessary in your case.
Just be careful about dumping soda ash / baking soda into the pool. If you stay away from the pool store, and listen to us, that shouldn't be an issue. But pool stores -- especially BioGuard stores with the "Alex" computerized dosing monster -- seem to love to recommend simultaneous large doses of calcium chloride and sodium carbonate.
Sounds good.
Ok, so here's the latest. I did a complete work-up just for the practice.
Free Chlorine 5 (Loss of 1.5 PPM through the daylight)
Combined Chlorine 0.5
PH 7.2
Total Alkalinity 80 (down by 10)
Calcium Hardness 390
CYA (Stabilizer) 55+
It looks okay to me and seems to be trending to where you guys suggest it should be. I added another pound of dichlor (Leslie's ChlorBrite) for good measure... AND THEN... (see below)
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So... I went to do my brushing I do a few times a week and there is still a covering of yellow on the bottom. I have, over the past few years, played it off to be pollen, or sometimes thought that it could just be the early stages of green algae. However, now it's time to take a serious look at what it is and try and catch it sooner than later.
I suppose I need to start a thread in the algae sub-forum (and will if you would like me to), but my question is: How can you tell if it's mustard algae? I don't see any high demands for chlorine, but I don't know if that is an indicator or not.
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