Testing chemical level for newb

[CarlD]

Thanks Richard, for the K2006 info.

I only check CH once or twice a summer, having a vinyl pool. But I do always check CYA with my weekly test and keep extra reagent on hand always. TA's easy to test every week, too. Though--full disclosure--I don't run the full suite every week at all now that I have an SWCG. But when I'm setting up in the spring I do, and more often if there's a problem.

But as Richard says, the FC/CC/TC and pH can change in hours which is why the daily tests are recommended...2-5 minutes a day and you'll have a clear pool all summer.

[consoleman]

So, a few things happened over the weekend. We just moved in. Before doing so someone came and cleaned the pool and left a note on the door stating the levels adjusted and that my filter needed a overhaul and that there was a lot of "DE" at the bottom of the pool. I don't have internet at home until this Saturday, so its hard to look at youtube videos at work.

At the time I only know how to test for PH with Reagent 5 (5 drops i think). I backwashed the filter and scrubbed the side walls and bottom towards the pump vent at the bottom. I dont know how to turn on the one for the spa so Its quite dirty. I have somebody from lislie pools coming to do the "pool school" this Saturday.

[CarlD]

Do you have a DE filter or a sand filter? Because if you backwash a sand filter, DE doesn't come into the picture.*
But if you backwash a DE filter you must put more DE in.
*We do sometimes add a LITTLE DE into sand filters to improve performance, but it's not necessary.

Now I don't know what "overhaul" means when it comes to filters. If it's DE, I don't know if that means clean the screens in acid, replace/repair damaged screens, repair other mechanicals in the filter or what. If it's a sand filter does that mean replace/repair parts or seals in the multivalve, replace laterals?

There is annual maintenance on DEs, but usually not on sand filters.

There are directions with the K-2006C. You can ignore, for now (and, IMHO, forever) the acid demand test and base demand test, so pretend they are not there.
You'll want to test the chlorine for FC and CC (TC, total chlorine is the sum of FC and CC)
pH
Total Alkalinity (T/A)
Stabilizer (CYA)
and,
Calcium Hardness (CH)--but it's really mostly critical with concrete/tile type pools.

By far the hardest test to run correctly is the CYA test. The others are pretty easy.

[consoleman]

I was told by the owner in a email that the filters were DE. How do I add more DE after backwashing and where do I add it? Also, what is it (powder, gel) ?

[CarlD]

DE stands for diatomaceous earth, skeletons of tiny critters that forms a super-fine powder like powdered sugar. You buy it at a pool store or the pool section of WalMart, K-Mart possibly Costco. Here's where my knowledge is shaky: I believe you make a slurry of water and DE and add it through the skimmer (the skimmer part is right).

But with a DE filter you have to add DE after you back wash. I don't know how much: That should be available by looking up the manufacturer and model number. I don't know how you work it if you don't know how much to add when you recharge it.

[consoleman]

Carl,
Do DE and sand filters have a part number located on the actual filter? I need to find out. The previous homeowner left no information regarding filters.

I found out that you should add 80 percent of the original new dose of DE to your filter after backwash. I backwashed this weekend and didn't add DE because I didn't know i had too. So now i have backwash then remove the filter and clean it with a hose then add more DE to the closest skimmer (just add powdered scoops).

[CarlD]

They usually do. If you know the manufacturer, you may be able to use the profile and dimensions to identify it.