Re: Refilling my inground pool; want to get my water chemistry right
FC = 0.2 ppm is way low. Add bleach or liquid chlorine to get to 20 - 25 ppm and keep it there consistently until your pool is clear. See the best guess chart. The other measures seem OK for now. Don't use the Power powder it's cal-hypo and will add more calcium that you do not need - no stabilizer in it though.
I think Doc would agree - the first priority is to kill the algae and get the water clear.
Doc suggested an OTO test kit and keeping chlorine in the orange. It's cheap to test this way, since you should be testing and adding chlorine several times a day during the fight - even (or especially) in the rain. Of course you can use your Taylor kit. Use the 10 ml sample (0.5 ppm per drop). Also, you only need one scoop of the powder for either the 10 or 25 ml sample.
Wait for Doc before draining. If you are refilling from a well, you will have iron in the water. It may be necessary to know how much. Metals and high chlorine usually = stains. You may already have a filter on your well for this if you are using it domestically.
If the algae is not more noticeable on the part of the pool that is most in the shade, meaning side walls, it's probably green algae (shock level in Best Guess). If it is on the "shady walls" it may be mustard/yellow algae (+shock+ in BG). But you're not going to kill anything at 0.2 or even 10 ppm.
In-ground gunite 16 x 30 13,000 gal. Full screen enclosure. 120 sq ft. Filter cartridge, 1-1/2 HP pump. Master Pools In-floor cleaner. Taylor K-2006.
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