Green Hair????

[readytoscream]

Okay, I Checked the water with a 15 sec test strip (brand new), the pH level was 6.2...the free chlorine, total alkalinity, and stabilizer were all 0. What now?

[Watermom]

We don't really think too much of the accuracy of teststrips. Better to use a drops-based kit. At any rate, if your ph truly is 6.2, you need to raise it ASAP! Any reading below 7.0 is acidic and can damage your pool. Add a box of Borax slowly to the skimmer while the pump is running. Wait a few hours to let it circulate, then retest and redose until you get it to at least 7.0. Then start adding only a half or a third of a box at a time. Actually, aim for 7.4-7.6.

Also, add 3 quarts of plain, unscented bleach to the skimmer. That should take your FC to about 4.5 or so. Without any stabilizer in your water, you'll need to test morning and night and each time add some more bleach. Buy some cya. You may be able to buy it at Walmart, Lowe's, Home Depot, or you may have to go to a pool store. It may be called stabilizer or conditioner. Check the ingredient label. If it says cyanuric acid or isocyanuric acid, it is what you want. Add enough per label directions to get you to a reading of about 30. Add it to the skimmer. Do not broadcast it across the pool like the label may tell you to do. Then, don't retest, add more or backwash for about a week to let it dissolve. After you start getting a cya reading, you should be able to test and dose with bleach in the evenings only, but in the meantime, it will be necessary to do it morning and evening or you won't be able to keep any chlorine in the pool.

You can raise your alk with baking soda - again, add it to the skimmer. 80-125 is a good level. Add a box at a time until you start getting a reading, then smaller doses.

Hope this helps.

[CarlD]

First off...don't believe a 15 sec test strip--it may be accurate, maybe not. You can get a little OTO/pH test kit at any pool store and most discount houses, even that is better.

HOWEVER, the one thing they are usually pretty good at is chlorine--if it shows 0 you have 0. If it shows 10+, you have 10 or more--between those two....weellllllll I don't buy.

I know I'm being a little glib but if your pH is 6.2 you need to raise it immediately. Your two best choices are Borax or Washing Soda/Soda Ash. Borax will raise pH, and Soda Ash will raise pH and Total alk, which you need (but you can add baking soda instead).

I'd start with a full box of Borax --20 Mule Team at your grocery store. Make sure the pump is running. Add it to the skimmer. Wait, say, an hour. Then I would add, to the skimmer, 1 gallon of regular bleach to get some chlorine in the water. Wait, oh, say 2 hours and check your water again. If the pH is below 7.0, add another box of Borax. Wait another hour and if FC shows less than 3ppm, add another gallon of bleach.

Keep doing this until pH is 7.3-7.8 and FC is 3ppm.

Then worry about total alkalinity and CYA (stabilizer). You are aiming for T/A of 80-125--add one # of baking soda, wait a couple of hours and check. If low, add another #. You need at least 30ppm of stabilizer, but not more than 50ppm. You can buy this at discount houses or pool stores. Figure out, from the label, how much for 13,000 gallons (24'round) you need to get 30ppm of CYA. Use about half that amount. You can put it in an old stocking and hang it near the return, or put it in the skimmer, but don't turn off the filter or backwash for a week. Then measure CYA again, and repeat, until you reach 30-50ppm.

Hope this all helps.

[waterbear]

Just a suggestion. Walmart and sometimes Kmart sell a 6 way test kit (by Aquachem) that is a good starter kit and much more accurate than the test strips. It uses liquid reagents and costs about $15. You probably paid as much, if not more, for those strips. See if you can find it. It will make getting your pool balanced and swimmable much easier and faster! Test strips are just not good for balancing a pool. They don't have enough accuracy and precision. The walmart kit is accurate and easy to use and is what you need right now.

If you REALLY want to do it right either get a Taylor K-2006 kit (around $60 or so) or order the kit from the sister website to this forum www.poolsolutions.com. You want the PS234. It is very similar to the Taylor kit but is a better value for the money. It gives you more of the reagents that you need and that get used up quickly and leaves out 2 pretty useless tests that you really don't need. Even though the kit on poolsolutions costs a bit more it gives you enough reagents for more tests then the Taylor kit, expecially pH and CYA. For example, the Taylor kit only gives you enough to test CYA about 5 times while the PS234 will let you test about 21 times before you need more reagent. All the other tests have enough reagents to do more tests also when compared to the Taylor kit.

[readytoscream]

Okay got my water tested at a pool store. Here are the results Free and total chlorine are 0, Ph is 6.8, calcium hardness is 30, toal alkalinity is 43, cyanuric acid is 29, copper/iron is 1.3 phosphates is 0. What now? Thanks for the tip on the green hair. My girls pretty blonde hair is getting back to normal!

[Watermom]

Get some chlorine in there before your pool turns green! Each quart of 6% bleach will raise the cl by 1 to 1.5ppm in a 24ft AG pool. Test each evening, and add enough bleach to get back to 6ppm. Also add a half a box of Borax at a time (to the skimmer), wait a few hours to let it circulate, retest and redose til you get ph to 7.4-7.6. You can also add a half a box of baking soda in the same way until you get the alk to 80-125. Calcium hardness is irrelevent in a vinyl pool. If you find that you are having a hard time keeping chlorine in the pool through a day, you may decide later to bump the cya level up to 40 or 50, but try it at 30 for now.

[readytoscream]

What about the copper? They tried to sell me a bottle of Keetrol to capture the copper. Do I still need this. I've noticed that we are beginning to have small orangey brown spots at the bottom.

[waterbear]

you posted copper/iron at 1.3 ppm. Which is it, copper, iron, or both? If either copper or iron is that high you need the keetrol or a similar product such as Jack's Magic Blue Stuff or ProTeam's Metal Magic. Before you use a product like this the bottle will tell you what your pH and chlorine levels need to be. Follow the directions and do this first! How many gallons is your pool. You said it was a 24' round. How deep? If you don't know the gallons then post the depth and we can calculate it for you. If you have a 4' water depth then the pool is about 13,500 gal. Then we can get you on your way to getting the water balanced!

[readytoscream]

The test results had copper/iron 1.3. Not sure which it is, but knowing that my mother put the copper chemical, like a goof ball, in it to clean it before I took over the maintenace I would probably be safe in assuming it is the copper. The pool is 13,500 gallons. I went this afternoon and bought 4gallons of bleach, 4 boxes of 20 mule team borax, and 6lbs of baking soda. With my test results what do I add first, how much and when?

[waterbear]

First thing you need to do is get a metal treatment product and use it accoring to the directions. If you need to make any ajustments to the water before you use it and are not sure what to do post and we will help you. You need to deal with the metal first before you start adding chlorine. Most of the metal sequstering products work pretty much the same. Like I said before, Jack's Magic Blue Stuff and ProTeam's Metal Magic are both good products that I am familier with. Just be sure you use the dosage for metals in water and not the maintenance dosage.