Re: pool light, closing off???
I'm not sure. I guess it depends on the pool construction. If it's gunite like mine, (and it's not leaking) I suppose a cover would be fine. Eliminating the light would require chipping it out of the gunite and patching that. It would be a big hole to fill and the cold joint it created would cause me concern. If you have a liner, I couldn't advise if a "patch" could be successfully applied.
Half inch per day in August? Could this be evaporation loss? Did you do the bucket test described in the leaktools website? Detecting leaks requires a systematic approach.
Do a Bucket Test to determine that you have a leak. (Some suggest two tests - one with the pump on and one with the pump off). If you lose more water in the pool than the bucket - you have a leak (somewhere).
Then do a "static" bucket test (plug all inlets and outlets - pump off). If you lose more in the pool than the bucket during the static test your leak is in the pool vessel (the shell or liner and fittings) as opposed to the piping. Vessel leaks can be pinpointed with a dye test. If the static test results show the same loss in the pool and the bucket, the leak is in the pipes or equipment. (Generally equipment leaks are visible). Pipes can be tested using a pressure test, or by eliminating them one by one if possible. (Plug one off and see what happens). The leaktools website has a store that you can buy various plugs and air/water induction devices for pressure testing. I was not able to find them in my local area. Leak detection companies are also known that will come out and pinpoint a leak. Customers should be cautioned that finding "a leak" is not the same as finding "every leak". I bought the equipment to presure test myself. I had to cut a few pipes in the process, but PVC is easy.
Good luck.
In-ground gunite 16 x 30 13,000 gal. Full screen enclosure. 120 sq ft. Filter cartridge, 1-1/2 HP pump. Master Pools In-floor cleaner. Taylor K-2006.
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