I believe he means between settings.Originally Posted by Cold Drink
Poconos, thanks, I'll try it this weekend. Stupid Question: By middle position, is that when the valve is at 12 o'clock? I have a hayward veri-flow 700 something series so 12 o'clock is the "filter" position on that.Originally Posted by Poconos
- Tom
I believe he means between settings.Originally Posted by Cold Drink
I took everything apart and replaced every gasket I saw. Except, I couldn't get the wagon wheel gasket out that's under the multi-valve, it seemed to be fused in there. Is it normal for that gasket to be really difficult to remove? It almost seems like its glued in. So, the air seems to be mostly out of the system except for some champagne bubbles but I do get water in my backwash hose after the pump runs for a while, so I'm assuming that is caused by that wagon wheel gasket and I probably made it less effective when I tried to take it out. Is there a trick to removing that wagon wheel gasket?
They are glued in. Give it a good visual inspection for any bad spots. If it looks OK and is still soft it should be sealing OK. About the only way to get them out is to destroy them. Pull out as much as you can, then I use a flat blade screwdriver about the width of the channel to scrape the rest of the junk out of the seating grooves. Takes some effort and time. Now comes the debatable part. Hayward recommends crazy glue...at least they did last time I looked a couple years ago. Tried that once and didn't hold too well. Last year, pulled it out and squished silicone seal in the channels and used that as the adhesive. Prepped a circular piece of plastic sheeting to fit over the gasket. Wanted to reassemble the valve and put pressure on the gasket before and during the silicone curing process. I waxed one side of the plastic sheet so the silicone wouldn't stick to it. Can probably use wax paper too...just thought of that. For the first few hours I'd move the handle to a different position so all the webs of the gasket get pressed into place. After curing, a day, take the valve apart, remove the plastic or wax paper, trim any excess silicone seal out of the channels and bingo. I always have had a slight leak to waste but since I did this, nothing. A year now. There are people that suggest not gluing it at all. Can't understand the logic here but won't argue. This is what worked for me.
Al
(ajs-1)
In case you wonder what this is, on some posts that I want to find in the future I embed a unique search field.
What a pain it was getting that wagon wheel gasket out. I was starting to wonder what I had gotten myself into after about an hour of scraping to try and get the thing out. I didn't even have enough time to glue it in so I just pushed it in there and put the multi-valve back on. I just won't move the multi-valve until I can open it back up this weekend and clean it out some more and glue the new one in.
After it all I still have champagne bubbles but just from one return jet. So, the mystery continues. Its a lot better than it was before when I was getting burps of air coming out of both return jets. It's interesting to me that only one return jet has bubbles since there is only one return line coming from my pump and into the ground and it splits off underground.
- Tom
I got confused with this thread and apologize. I missed the original issue of bubbles and concentrated on the pump basket draining down. If you have air bubbles coming from the return jet(s) you have a suction side leak which could be a leak at the pump basket lid. If the pump basket is draining down overnight then the problem could be a leak in the multiport valve or the basket lid itself. Reading this whole thread again it seems the leak is most likely at the pump basket lid gasket.
Again, sorry I missed that.
Al
Bookmarks