Thanks for the advice. Curious: why turn off the SWCG?
Thanks for the advice. Curious: why turn off the SWCG?
SWCGs typically only produce enough chlorine for *normal* water with no problems; running them when you have problems just shortens their life. Since you STILL will have to add chlorine by hand, it's better to add ALL the chlorine you need, and save the SWCG for when things are normal.
As it is, most people find that their SWCG cells have to be replaced much sooner than they expected.
Ah -- OK. I already replaced one, but it was the control board, not the cell. It's a project in my garage. ;-)
Oh, yes. Those projects you're gonna get done when you get around to it. I've got some of those. But I still haven't gotten the projects done.
However, I do have a nice round tuit:
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PoolDoc, thanks for the tip -- after three days the Cl snapped back and the water's crystal clear again.
New numbers:
Free Cl = 5.8
Combined Cl = 0.2
Total Cl (OTO) = 3.0
pH = 7.4
Alkalinity = 120
Cya = 70 +
NaCl = 3000
(The pH dropped to 7.0 when I added cyanuric acid and I bumped it back up with borax)
I'll keep adding bleach for a week like you suggested so I don't have a recurrence (just added an extra pint this morning because I expect a heavy swimmer load for the 4th).
Intex 18' Round 53" Deep AGP, approx 8000 gallons, full sun all day.
Intex 14" Sand Filter Pump, 1600 gal/hour, Intex SWCG Model CS7110.
Strat,
Use a 10mL sample when you test instead of a 25mL one. It will make your testing reagents last longer.
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