For a variety of complicated reasons, water can stay green after everything seems 'perfect'.
1. Make sure you are testing validly -- strips are NOT reliable. Get a local OTO/phenol (yellow/red drops) and ORDER a K2006, via the link in my signature.
2. Filter 24/7. It's very likely that not all the metal (iron?) is gone. Dissolved iron is green, but when it changes state it becomes an iron oxide powder or fluff (if you are lucky) or iron stains (if you are not). Running your filter 24/7 will make it more likely the iron ends up on the filter instead of the pool.
3. Use polyquat (www.poolsolutions.com/gd/polyquat.html) for 2 reasons: (a) it will help avoid algae while your chlorine is low, & (b) it will help filter the iron.
4. Keep your chlorine lower than we normally recommend, and do not shock. Shocking pools with high chlorine doses can cause metals that are a minimal problem (green color) to become a major problem (orange or green or black stains!).
5. When you fill or add water, put a chlorine tab in the skimmer and fill SLOWLY via the skimmer. The chlorine tab will tend to make the metals precipitate and -- hopefully -- be filtered out.
6. If your filter is not working well, fix that. If you need more sand, add some. If you need a new cartridge, tell me the EXACT filter make/model, and let me help you find a Filbur or Unicel replacement cartridge. Do NOT buy a Pleatco or any of the other commonly sold Asian made cartridges. There are probably some good Chinese cartridges made by somebody . . . but we haven't found any yet.
Usually, if you do the sorts of things I list above, the pool will gradually turn to blue over a period of a couple of weeks, sometimes faster.
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