I'm guessing your cell is gone. I'm new to SWCGs myself so I hope PoolSean will see this.

Meanwhile, the B-B-B system is really nothing but common sense, paring away all the gobble-de-gook pool stores, pool chem companies and pool service guys feed you.
It comes down to:
1) You need and use chlorine to keep your pool sanitary. Generally bleach or Liquid Chlorine (same thing, only stronger) is the best source of chlorine.
2) pH--keep your acid/base levels in the proper range. Usually Borax (yes, Borax) or Washing Soda (same as pool store pH Up!) to raise, muriatic acid or dry acid to lower pH
3) Stabilizer: This determines the ideal levels of chlorine. Stabilizer is sold in pool stores. Just the simple Cyanuric or IsoCyanuric acid, nothing else.
4) T/A or total alkalinity. This helps keep your pH stable. You raise this with baking soda.

For this you need a proper test kit--the best $50-$70 you can invest in your pool. That's the Taylor kit Watermom mentioned. Leslie's Chlorine FAS-DPD Service Test Kit is the same thing as the Taylor, rebadged by Leslies and now exorbitantly expensive at $86. It used to be about $70. but they seem to have jumped the price this season--a lot.

If your pool is clear, you'll want to maintain FC between 3 and 6 ppm. If it needs to be shocked or you have algae, you'll need to maintain it at 15ppm until the algae is dead..that's given your CYA reading of between 30 and 50 (37 is not a realistic number--the tests aren't that precise).

If and when you replace your salt cell, you'll probably need to increase your CYA to the 60-80 range normally recommended for SWCGs, and maintain your FC at 5% or more of the CYA level (CYA=60 means FC of 3 or more. CYA of 80 means FC of 4 or more). But, until then, the Best Guess table here rules.

B-B-B is easy. It stands for Bleach, Borax and Baking Soda. Of course, we also suggest Muriatic Acid and CYA-stabilizer, but B-B-B is easy to remember, and easy to use.
Best of all, IT WORKS! (because it is logical and rational).