Since you have 2 separate pieces of concrete, you need a control joint. Either the black expansion joint stuff at an improvement store, or place a form to remove later and fill the area with seam sealant. For a pool deck, especially that close to the water, I'd go with the seam sealant.
If you pour up against what you leave of the cantilever, come back later and saw cut that joint. For a small job like that, you can put a 7" diamond wheel on a circular saw and use it like a concrete saw. I tape some cardboard to the bottom of the saw deck to help it move along the concrete. If you have curves, you'll need a smaller saw to make it (Roto Zip, or if the curve is gradual, maybe a 4.5" grinder). Even then it will be tough to make a clean curved cut.
If you want to post pictures I may be able to spot some things to help you out.
I'll be off grid til Monday, but would be happy to help then.
Are you confident that all of that 10" of remaining bullnose is sound enough to stand on its own? If you get the deck removed you may be able to spot and secure any voids.
the sloped deck is ridiculously common, at least around us. The dirt at the back end of the skirt deck washes out and the deck falls away from the pool. Makes it quite ugly. I've subbed out a few jobs like that to guys who do concrete lifting/leveling. They make a few core drills, pump in concrete to lift the area, then patch the hole. Too much geometry involved for me to make sense of it. But, a lot of times it's cheaper than a tear out and repour.
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