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Thread: Switching from SWCG to liquid Chlorine.

  1. #11
    chem geek is offline PF Supporter Whibble Konker chem geek 4 stars chem geek 4 stars chem geek 4 stars chem geek 4 stars
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    Default Re: Switching from SWCG to liquid Chlorine.

    With your reported numbers, the saturation index is -0.16 so shouldn't be scaling that much unless your pH is getting higher at times. It's also possible to get calcium phosphate scaling and that might be what is happening in your case. A phosphate remover would help if that were the case, but they are expensive so would not be cheap if it turned out not to be the cause. If you were to lower the TA to 80 ppm and see what happens -- especially since with an SWCG you would normally see the pH rising so it might be higher -- that would be cheaper to try first. If that helped, then you could lower the TA even more to 70 ppm and then add 50 ppm Borates to the pool and that should cut down the amount of pH rise in the SWCG in half.
    15.5'x32' rectangle 16K gal IG concrete pool; 12.5% chlorinating liquid by hand; Jandy CL340 cartridge filter; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; 8hrs; Taylor K-2006 and TFTestkits TF-100; utility water; summer: automatic; winter: automatic; ; PF:7.5

  2. #12
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    Default Re: Switching from SWCG to liquid Chlorine.

    As an update to my earlier posts. I have been testing water twice per day, and have found that adding 16oz liquid chlorine at 10% restores my cl level to 3.0 by the following early morning. Evening time it will have dropped to 2.0 and that is when I add the chlorine. Acid use has been reduced although not by huge amounts. I need to add about 1/3rd gall every 3 days to keep it below 8. Now I have a regular pattern going I can probably get away with testing every other day. The whole procedure is vastly quicker than cleaning out that salt cell and bleeding the system every morning and when the cost of replacement cells is taken into consideration the liquid chlorine method is also way cheaper. My phosphate
    level is high but there are no signs of algae and the water is still sparkling clear. I do however have really bad scaling on the tile and rubbing with pumice is totally useless, It will need sand blasting next time I drain it. Would there be any point in putting in Phosfree at this stage?

  3. #13
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    Default Re: Switching from SWCG to liquid Chlorine.

    Phosphates are algae food, but because of the chlorine there is not algae, so the phosphates are not relevant. Phosfree at this point would be moot, unless there is some other reason than algae control.
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  4. #14
    chem geek is offline PF Supporter Whibble Konker chem geek 4 stars chem geek 4 stars chem geek 4 stars chem geek 4 stars
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    Default Re: Switching from SWCG to liquid Chlorine.

    I'd lower your TA level as that should reduce calcium carbonate scaling on the tile. See the How To Guide to Lowering Swimming Pool Alkalinity.
    15.5'x32' rectangle 16K gal IG concrete pool; 12.5% chlorinating liquid by hand; Jandy CL340 cartridge filter; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; 8hrs; Taylor K-2006 and TFTestkits TF-100; utility water; summer: automatic; winter: automatic; ; PF:7.5

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