Booster pump won't start up...what to check?

[CarlD]

Good Job, Jim! When I did the same, the bearing whine made it clear they are done. Changing out the bearings themselves is not hard. You need a 3-jaw gear-puller, but a 6" chunk of 3/4 steel pipe is a perfect installation tool. I ran into all my problems with bolts seized up in the motor bell...Bi-metalism welds them together and bolts sheared. Now have a new pump and this one is a "project".

[JimK]

Good Job, Jim! When I did the same, the bearing whine made it clear they are done. Changing out the bearings themselves is not hard. You need a 3-jaw gear-puller, but a 6" chunk of 3/4 steel pipe is a perfect installation tool. I ran into all my problems with bolts seized up in the motor bell...Bi-metalism welds them together and bolts sheared. Now have a new pump and this one is a "project".

Thanks.

Is the "bell" the cover on the back? The two screws on the back were pretty corroded, but being careful I managed to get them out. Before reinstalling, I gave the screw/screw holes a good shot of WD40. However, it seems the threads on the screws are shot since the really don't tighten. That's OK though, as the cover (bell?) is still pretty secure.

[CarlD]

No. The bell is cover of the motor on the pump side, an aluminum casting. There's a similar cover on the other end but all the wiring and connections are outside it and there's a cover plate over that.

[Charlie_R]

Rather than using WD-40 on the threads, there is a product call anti-seize lubricant that is available at your local auto parts store that is specifically made for dissimilar metals. Available in small packets, up to a large (4oz) bottle with brush. I use this on just about anything where different metals are in contact, and have never had a problem with removal of bolts/nuts that I've used it on.

If indeed you have galled the threads in the aluminum, there are kits available for thread renewal, look for heli-coil. Available in SAE (U.S. common) and metric, in most sizes from 8-24 up to 3/4-10. Be warned, the initial kit can be pricey, but coil refills are also available. The kit normally includes a special sized drill bit, a tap for the resized hole, an installation tool, and several heli-coils. The heli-coil insert puts new stainless steel threads into your assembly, so the use of anti-seize is recommended -- that darned dissimilar metals thing again -- galvanic action.

[CarlD]

Anti-Seize is good stuff...used to use it on a MC. It's the opposite of Loc-Tite.

Usually a heli-coil kit is the EASY part of the job. It's getting the broken screw out, esp when the screw is small, and, worse, when it's hardened. I've never used one as small as 8-32, but I have used 6mm many times (again, on motorcycles).

[JimK]

No. The bell is cover of the motor on the pump side, an aluminum casting. There's a similar cover on the other end but all the wiring and connections are outside it and there's a cover plate over that.

Ah, I didn't get that far into the pump/motor. I ran it for about 3hours yesterday and it did fine. Any suggestions to prevent it happening again next winter? Would it hurt the motor/pump to run it dry for a couple seconds, say maybe once a month over the winter, to prevent it from seizing again?

Rather than using WD-40 on the threads, there is a product call anti-seize lubricant that is available at your local auto parts store that is specifically made for dissimilar metals. Available in small packets, up to a large (4oz) bottle with brush. I use this on just about anything where different metals are in contact, and have never had a problem with removal of bolts/nuts that I've used it on.

If indeed you have galled the threads in the aluminum, there are kits available for thread renewal, look for heli-coil. Available in SAE (U.S. common) and metric, in most sizes from 8-24 up to 3/4-10. Be warned, the initial kit can be pricey, but coil refills are also available. The kit normally includes a special sized drill bit, a tap for the resized hole, an installation tool, and several heli-coils. The heli-coil insert puts new stainless steel threads into your assembly, so the use of anti-seize is recommended -- that darned dissimilar metals thing again -- galvanic action.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look for that to use in the future. I noticed that the bolts holding the cover over the impeller (on the front) had some kind of thick lubricant on the threads. Perhaps this is the same stuff you're talking about.

[Charlie_R]

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look for that to use in the future. I noticed that the bolts holding the cover over the impeller (on the front) had some kind of thick lubricant on the threads. Perhaps this is the same stuff you're talking about.

Probably is.

As for removal of the old screw, there are many ways of doing that.

Here is a link that you might find interesting about one of those off beat ways (hope it's ok to post a link to another forum!): http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showth...and-drills-out