Re: Booster pump won't start up...what to check?
Originally Posted by
CarlD
No. The bell is cover of the motor on the pump side, an aluminum casting. There's a similar cover on the other end but all the wiring and connections are outside it and there's a cover plate over that.
Ah, I didn't get that far into the pump/motor. I ran it for about 3hours yesterday and it did fine. Any suggestions to prevent it happening again next winter? Would it hurt the motor/pump to run it dry for a couple seconds, say maybe once a month over the winter, to prevent it from seizing again?
Originally Posted by
Charlie_R
Rather than using WD-40 on the threads, there is a product call anti-seize lubricant that is available at your local auto parts store that is specifically made for dissimilar metals. Available in small packets, up to a large (4oz) bottle with brush. I use this on just about anything where different metals are in contact, and have never had a problem with removal of bolts/nuts that I've used it on.
If indeed you have galled the threads in the aluminum, there are kits available for thread renewal, look for heli-coil. Available in SAE (U.S. common) and metric, in most sizes from 8-24 up to 3/4-10. Be warned, the initial kit can be pricey, but coil refills are also available. The kit normally includes a special sized drill bit, a tap for the resized hole, an installation tool, and several heli-coils. The heli-coil insert puts new stainless steel threads into your assembly, so the use of anti-seize is recommended -- that darned dissimilar metals thing again -- galvanic action.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look for that to use in the future. I noticed that the bolts holding the cover over the impeller (on the front) had some kind of thick lubricant on the threads. Perhaps this is the same stuff you're talking about.
22'x40' Grecian Lazy L 20K gal IG vinyl pool; Aqua Rite SWCG T15 cell; Hayward Pro Grid 6020 DE filter; Hayward Superpump 1hp pump; 12 hrs; Taylor K-2006; city; PF:6
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