Booster pump won't start up...what to check?

[JimK]

Just opened the pool last week and am ready to put the Polaris 280 cleaner. Installed the cleaner and went to turn on the booster pump. The pump made a slight humming noise, then a soft click, now nothing. It won't come on at all. Waited a few minutes, tried again, and it just makes a humming/buzzing noise and will not run.

What should I check? Should I just get a new booster pump? It was installed in 2004 and is a Hayward Booster Pump model 5060.

Help!

[CarlD]

My main pump did that this year. It means the bearings have probably seized up over the winter and the safeties in the pump switched it off to keep it from burning out. You'll need to find a way to break the main shaft loose so it can turn, but it may be noisy. You may need to replace the bearings.

[JimK]

Update:

I took the cover off the back but saw nothing unusual (no burnt or damaged looking components). I took the cover off the front and the impeller will not turn. I guessing this means the bearings have seized? Now I'm trying to figure out how to remove the impeller....

Does this sound like an easy DIY repair, or should I get a new pump?

[JimK]

My main pump did that this year. It means the bearings have probably seized up over the winter and the safeties in the pump switched it off to keep it from burning out. You'll need to find a way to break the main shaft loose so it can turn, but it may be noisy. You may need to replace the bearings.

Hehe...I was just posting at the same time. Yes, it appears the bearings have seized. Any idea how to free them? Is replacing bearings an easy DIY project for a novice? I was able to replace the seals on the main pump last year.

[JimK]

My main pump did that this year. It means the bearings have probably seized up over the winter and the safeties in the pump switched it off to keep it from burning out. You'll need to find a way to break the main shaft loose so it can turn, but it may be noisy. You may need to replace the bearings.

Update 2:

It's alive!

While trying to unscrew the impeller, I got it freed up and it seemed to turn smoothly in both directions. Put everything back together and it started up fine this time. It's not running any noisier than normal, so hopefully that means its OK. I'll keep an eye on it and see how it does.

Thanks for the quick response, Carl.

[CarlD]

Good Job, Jim! When I did the same, the bearing whine made it clear they are done. Changing out the bearings themselves is not hard. You need a 3-jaw gear-puller, but a 6" chunk of 3/4 steel pipe is a perfect installation tool. I ran into all my problems with bolts seized up in the motor bell...Bi-metalism welds them together and bolts sheared. Now have a new pump and this one is a "project".

[JimK]

Good Job, Jim! When I did the same, the bearing whine made it clear they are done. Changing out the bearings themselves is not hard. You need a 3-jaw gear-puller, but a 6" chunk of 3/4 steel pipe is a perfect installation tool. I ran into all my problems with bolts seized up in the motor bell...Bi-metalism welds them together and bolts sheared. Now have a new pump and this one is a "project".

Thanks.

Is the "bell" the cover on the back? The two screws on the back were pretty corroded, but being careful I managed to get them out. Before reinstalling, I gave the screw/screw holes a good shot of WD40. However, it seems the threads on the screws are shot since the really don't tighten. That's OK though, as the cover (bell?) is still pretty secure.

[CarlD]

No. The bell is cover of the motor on the pump side, an aluminum casting. There's a similar cover on the other end but all the wiring and connections are outside it and there's a cover plate over that.

[Charlie_R]

Rather than using WD-40 on the threads, there is a product call anti-seize lubricant that is available at your local auto parts store that is specifically made for dissimilar metals. Available in small packets, up to a large (4oz) bottle with brush. I use this on just about anything where different metals are in contact, and have never had a problem with removal of bolts/nuts that I've used it on.

If indeed you have galled the threads in the aluminum, there are kits available for thread renewal, look for heli-coil. Available in SAE (U.S. common) and metric, in most sizes from 8-24 up to 3/4-10. Be warned, the initial kit can be pricey, but coil refills are also available. The kit normally includes a special sized drill bit, a tap for the resized hole, an installation tool, and several heli-coils. The heli-coil insert puts new stainless steel threads into your assembly, so the use of anti-seize is recommended -- that darned dissimilar metals thing again -- galvanic action.

[CarlD]

Anti-Seize is good stuff...used to use it on a MC. It's the opposite of Loc-Tite.

Usually a heli-coil kit is the EASY part of the job. It's getting the broken screw out, esp when the screw is small, and, worse, when it's hardened. I've never used one as small as 8-32, but I have used 6mm many times (again, on motorcycles).