Pool is clear but bottom looks spotty and dirty

[BigDave]

Sounds like a pretty goo idea - it will lower the pH locally so be on the lookout for pitting in the plaster.

One method I've read is to put the chemical in a zip-loc bag to transport it to the stain then pour / squeeze the slurry onto the target spots.

[rkrgk]

Sounds like a pretty goo idea - it will lower the pH locally so be on the lookout for pitting in the plaster.

Good point,yeah I somehow thought Trichlor is basic, when you mentioned I checked the Taylor booklet,its pH is 2.8-3.5. Hopefully wont stain, I guess I need to take a chance *rock and a hard place*.

One method I've read is to put the chemical in a zip-loc bag to transport it to the stain then pour / squeeze the slurry onto the target spots.

Sounds like a good idea. Let me go check if I can get some Trichlor powder locally here. I have the pucks from last year, but dont have a holder (like this, but got bad reviews.. http://www.amazon.com/Pentair-542068...pentair+holder) or else I could just use it to scratch the floor with it to get same effect I guess. shallow ends I could srub with the puck and see if it makes any difference. I will give it a try and let you know if it makes a difference.

Also do you know why it is bad to use ammonium hydroxide with chlorine in the pool? except that pool is unusable for few weeks. I read somewhere its effective against black algae.

[BigDave]

You could break up a puck and put the chunks over the spots.

I wouldn't advise ammonia products in a pool - PoolDoc or ChemGeek may be able to advise you better - I just don't have the depth or chemistry. I do know that you'd be likely to form chloramines and that monochloramine is an effective algaecide - is does stink and irritate skin. If you want to use the pool, I'd stick with shock FC levels and wear old swimsuits.

[chem geek]

The main reason ammonia products are used in a pool is that they form monochloramine that doesn't bind to CYA so in a pool with high CYA levels it's a way of "cheating" to get a higher active oxidizer level. This is especially true against algae that tend to look at monochloramine as if it were ammonia which is something they can use as a source of nitrogen, but the monochloramine kills them. However, your pool doesn't have very high CYA so shocking with chlorine should be quite effective. The key for black algae is to scrape off the waxy surface layer (the "heads") so that the chlorine can kill the algae below. Some people just maintain their pools at a somewhat higher FC level and brush regularly and the algae will slowly get killed while others go to shock level to try and get it over with more quickly -- up to you. At Ben's recommended FC/CYA levels, neither green nor black algae will be able to grow (yellow/mustard algae requires higher levels so is usually best to get rid of completely, if possible).

[rkrgk]

Thanks Chem Geek. I kept at shock level (15ppm+) for more than three weeks with daily brushing (yes daily, sometime twice a day) and for the last two weeks (of those three weeks) kept it at +shock+ (30ppm) level, still I could not get rid of all (or visibly none I should say) the black algae. Now I went back to keeping about 5-10ppm FC, since it got to a point where I had to say " I surrender" . So I was looking at any other options I may have, to remove them before I resort to acid wash (if thats the only way). I feel that I have a higher chlorine demand because of the black alage on the walls, they seems to slowly grow as time pass (unless I keep shock level chlorine levels as per Bens chart which is not practical for more than a month or so). I think I wasted a lot of money trying to figure this out, but no real end in sight **tired** So I am a bit desperate to know what I am doing wrong with my approach. I am sure you guys, chem geek/PoolDoc have seen and encountered all kinds of these issues in and out, either I am not giving enough info or there is no possible recourse with my issue(black algae) using BBB or I don't quite understand it. Thanks BigDave too for trying to get to the bottom of my issue.

[chem geek]

OK, so another option for you is to use Trichlor either as tabs or granular. The most common black algaecide is in fact Trichlor granular. The high chlorine level and low pH combine to be potent, BUT you can only use this on a plaster surface as it will destroy vinyl. Unfortunately, your concrete pool is painted so it would likely bleach out the paint, but if your paint is white then it might be OK. You could try a little in an area you don't care about and see if it leaves a mark. Of course, this method may work on the floor, but not for the walls.

Are you positive you have black algae? If you are able to scrape some off and spread it on a piece of paper, it should look dark green and not black. It is possible that you might have some metal staining instead. If you have metal stains, then lowering the pH of the pool would lighten them up. Also, putting some ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) would remove the stain if it were iron (if copper, then only the acid would lighten it).

[rkrgk]

It is black algae, I can scrape them and it is dark green, it looks tar-like when it is at the bottom and has tough texture and if I remove with a bit of force (from where I can) they float and are like algae. As I said in my previous post I was able to remove a lot of it using the wirebrush, and they were caught in the secondary skimmer (fine mesh) and they are green, granular and plant like. but it got to a point where it doesnt go away at all after 3-4 weeks.
I will use trichlor and let you know how that goes. I have trichlor tabs, but the problem is I dont know how to apply directly on top of them especially the walls. If I get the granules I can sprinke at the bottom to see if it makes a difference atleast at the bottom so I will know it works.