Bonding Mystery - Pool Light

[ChuckDavis]

I did some testing and there was no measurable voltage between the bond wires and the pump, although my VOM only goes down to a 2 VDC range. There is a slight amount of DC current (.002-.004 milliamps) between the bond wires from the light and the pool deck to the pump bonding lug. (The heat pump is currently disconnected from the pool plumbing.) There was no difference in measurements with the light on or off and/or the pump on or off.

I'm thinking of installing sacrificial anodes on the pool light and in the main plumbing, probably near the heater. Potential brand: http://pooltool.com/anodes.html.

Does anybody have any recommendations for, against or alternatives?

Also, other than code compliance is there any reason to change out the stranded #8 bonding wire for solid?

Thanks.

[BigDave]

I'm not sure how you measured from bond wires to pump. Did you lift the bond from the pump?

As I understand it, there must be some voltage where there's current?

A sacrificial anode might be a good way to counter galvanic corrosion and would also serve as a water bond. It would almost certainly put zinc ions in the pool and cause some current in the bond. It would have to be connected to the bond to be effective.

As I understand it and as you mention, the idea behind the bond wire is to provide a low resistance path between all conductive parts in and around the pool mitigating the risk of electric shock to swimmers by equalizing the voltage of all conductive parts of the pool. I believe solid wire is required because each strand in stranded wire can corrode more quickly than solid wire causing high resistance in the wire.

Does the electrical contractor have pool experience? Pools are different than homes.

The only good advice I can give is: find a qualified, licensed electrician with extensive pool experience to look at this pool.