Good Luck! and have fun.
I've decided, finally, going into my 11th season with my FantaSea pool, to get into the wonderful world of SWCGs!
I still cannot justify the cost vs regular maintenance and adding LC or bleach, but I'm going to be away several times during the summer and I'm always a little nervous relying on someone else to add LC on schedule. I've always said if you're going to be away a lot that SWCGs are the way to go.
So I've ordered a PoolPilot and matching cell and manifold.
Meantime, I have installed an outdoor 220v outlet that piggy-backs on the pump's outlet. Since the pump outlet is already on a GFI breaker and a timer, it's just a matter of wiring a cable to the PoolPilot and plugging it in and the timer will control both.
If I find I have the "rising pH syndrome" I can add a 5 gallon acid pump to the system to compensate.
So...at least I have the wiring part done. I will have to re-plumb my return manifold using PVC instead of TigerFlex, at least for part of it to support the cell manifold.
Measure-Cut-Glue, Measure-Cut-Glue, repeat as necessary!
BTW, thanks to PoolSean for his great guidance!
Carl
Good Luck! and have fun.
12'x24' oval 7.7K gal AG vinyl pool; ; Hayward S270T sand filter; Hayward EcoStar SP3400VSP pump; hrs; K-2006; PF:16
Installing it or using it?
Installing it shouldn't be difficult but..fun?
Using it I hope isn't fun but rather...innocuous!
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Carl
Measure-Cut-Glue-Swear, Measure-Cut-Glue-Yell, Back to the plumbing supply house, ... Repeat - Fun!
Seriously, good luck with your investment. If it reduces your maintenance (or worry) then there's more time for fun.
12'x24' oval 7.7K gal AG vinyl pool; ; Hayward S270T sand filter; Hayward EcoStar SP3400VSP pump; hrs; K-2006; PF:16
Nah, I've done a LOT of PVC work and ALWAYS keep spares of fittings just for mistakes. I had to COMPLETELY re-plumb my pool as soon as the installers left: They had used internal barbed fittings inside of TigerFlex so it was leaking everywhere instantly! Funny, because they did everything else very well. I re-fit it all with proper Schedule 40 glue-on fittings and they never leak. PVC work is Plumbing For Dummies so I'm a shoo-in! I've done upgrades over the years, like building a manifold so the solar panels could be split up and used more effectively, and when I added to the pool deck, I had to move the pump and filter...and re-do the conduit for the pump's 220v wiring. The conduit's just like PVC only easier, but the wiring inside is tougher.
The way to avoid the "Swear" component is "Dry Fit"!![]()
Carl
I'm wondering, for all you SWCG cogniscenti: Should I install the manifold as close to the filter as possible, or as close to the return as I can? I also tee off to feed my solar panels, just before the return. Should the manifold come before or after the tee?
I'm guess that the closer to the filter is better as there is a minimum pump pressure required. But I'm also guess with my setup, where the distance from the filter to the return is less than 10' and a pretty straight shot, that it doesn't matter as long as the manifold is upright and well supported.
Any thoughts?
Carl
I doubt it would matter from a performance perspective. I'd be thinking about ease of access for when you need to clean the cell. Mine's on the pad right next to the filter output.
rectangle 11.5K gal IG concrete pool;; 125sf cartridge filter; 2hp 1 speed pump; K-2006, k-1766; PF:10
Actually, access is very easy either way with my configuration. I don't like "cramped" I just need to be able to get past it for other maintenance items under the deck.
Carl
Just my two cents regarding the rising pH syndrome; I've found that it takes a lot less acid to maintain the pH near the top of the range than trying to keep it in the middle.
Don
Discount Salt Pools
That is the case for me as well. There's an excellent writeup on that subject here: http://www.poolsolutions.com/gd/hiphpool.html
rectangle 11.5K gal IG concrete pool;; 125sf cartridge filter; 2hp 1 speed pump; K-2006, k-1766; PF:10
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