Recommendations For Replacement Pump Or Pump Motor (1.5" Piping, High Head)

[ChuckDavis]

I'm finally back to this thread. Had a fun few weeks with a stain treatment and other get-ready-for-summer games.

My goal is to see if there is/are modification(s) to my system that will reduce electricity consumption with no more than a 2 to 3 year payback while maintaining sanitation, clarity, water feature functionality, etc.

I just got the flowmeter installed. Readings are:

** Pump on high speed, heat pump bypassed (winter) - 60 gpm, 4.2 hours/turn
** Pump on high speed, heat pump in circuit (summer) - 40 gpm, 6.25 hours/turn
** Pump on low speed, heat pump bypassed (winter) - 20 gpm, 12.5 hours/turn
** Pump on low speed, heat pump in circuit (summer) - too low to measure, below 20 gpm

An updated list of options that I can think of or that were suggested is:

** Keep existing pump and continue to swap wires with the seasons
** Keep existing pump, downsize impeller and continue to swap wires with the seasons
** Add a 2-speed pump timer to the existing (or new) 2-speed pump. Run at high speed during swimming season for filtration/heater/water feature/chlorinator. Run at low speed during swimming season for filtration/heater (chlorinator won't work). Run at low speed during winter for filtration/water feature/chlorinator.
** Replace pump with a variable speed/variable flow model. (Even with the 1.5 HP Hayward Super Pump VS and Max-Flo VS models that are designed for 1.5 inch piping, this is probably not cost effective with electricity costing approximately $0.10/kWh before taxes and fees.)
** Replace pump motor with a variable speed unit. (Also probably not cost effective.)
** Replace pump motor (and impeller) with a 1 HP, 2-speed unit and continue to swap wires with the seasons (or add two-speed timer).
** Replace pump motor (and impeller) with a single-speed unit.

Based on the current flow readings, would a downsized impeller reduce the flow to where I wouldn't get enough turns and/or (in summer, with a two-speed pump timer) the heat pump would not come on at low speed? In winter, at low speed could I end up with not enough flow/pressure to operate the chlorinator and/or water feature?

Thanks again.

[mas985]

First, # of turns really doesn't mean much. Just run the pump for as long as necessary to remove the debris out of the pool and to add sufficient chlorine. Those are the only things that matter. Usually a pool can get clean in as little as 3 hours independent of flow rate and turnover. The biggest energy saver can be to simply reduce run time.

Next biggest reduction in energy consumption comes from running on low speed. Generally, that will save 50% in energy costs with doubling of run time. But sometimes you don't need to double run time so you can save even more. Water features might be an issue but why run them unless you are using the pool. The chlorinator should not be an issue although you may need to make some adjustments. The heat pump may or may not work on low speed but you can try it can't you?

A VS improves energy efficiency slightly more but usually it is not enough to justify the extra cost of the pump.

It think you should either get a toggle switch for the pump or a two speed timer. That is all you really need.