Prescription for a tough spring opening

[Watermom]

What was the chlorine level when you closed? I don't think there is really anything to do at this point, but do try and open as early as you can in the spring. What kind of test kit are you using? If you don't have a Taylor K-2006, order one over the winter from the testkit link in my signature so you'll have it upon opening. Or if you do have the good kit, order some fresh reagents.

[tharder]

Thanks Watermom. I entered all that in the form when I registered (actually re-registered from years ago) so I didn't think it was necessary. Please accept my apologies. I've used the Taylor K-2006 since Ben stopped selling his kit. Once my pool went clear my last measurement on the chlorine level was 14 ppm. I added 2 additional gallons, ran it for 2 more days and it was closed (didn't test just prior to closing). I was completing final waste line plumbing, the EasyTouch and the gas connections to the heater. I was too busy vacuuming out all the DE and Algae on the last day.

I don't think it would do me much good to pull a sample now. The low last night was 24. The high today was maybe 40. The pool is totally clear of leaves except what might have snuck under the cover. Cold water holds high chlorine values quite well and tends to stay very clear with little attendance. I'd guess, especially with all of that stabilizer in there.

The last few days prior to closing it was all I could do to keep it clear of leaves. The quicker they're out the fewer contaminants in the water. I usually don't close this late. Right in the meat of the tree shed. I'm surrounded by oaks, hard maples and silver maples.

I'm curious...why open as early as I can? I know I'll likely lose some CYA by next spring, but to bring it down below 100, just don't know. But, what will opening the pool early as possible do for me? To get on top of the values before the water warms?

Thanks...Tom

[Watermom]

I didn't check the pool chart before I responded to your last post. Sorry 'bout that! Regarding opening --- we see many pools where the CYA biodegrades over the winter and leaves you with a pool full of ammonia as a result. This can cause a HUGE chlorine demand where it takes tons of bleach before you can hold any chlorine in the pool. This can happen in any pool but especially when your CYA is as high as you report yours to be, if it does happen, it is especially a problem to clear up. Who knows how far over 100 your CYA actually is? By the way, how did it get so high?

[tharder]

I don't know precisely how high it is. And, as Ben has written in other threads, it is probably one of the worst (or most difficult) tests to interpret in the kit. I completely agree. I've watched the Taylor video to check my assessment but to know exactly when the black dot disappears I find somewhat subjective. I performed the test several times just to be sure and I believe the level was about a 1/16th" below the 100 mark. I also question my testing a bit considering how little bleach it took to clear the pool. I realize my bleach strong but it only took 3 gallons. I find that at least somewhat encouraging.

The way it got so high was that I was using dichlor (from Sam's Club) to shock it. I, for some knucklehead reason, thought my granular was "unstabilized". That combined with the use of skimmer pucks while I was servicing the system combined for a problematic outcome. Personally, I find liquid chlorine (or bleach) a pain. Six back surgeries and a shoulder reconstruction means I generally prefer to avoid such weight. I'd prefer a granular but I don't care for Cal Hyp because of how it dissolves. Since I've found this high test Hypochlorite it takes far fewer gallons to do the job and it's cheap. As a result it is, and will be, my chlorine of choice.

I also believe there is a lesser demand in the cold north. Colder temps inhibit algae establishment and proliferation. I could be wrong but it's a pretty short season compared to the south.

Thoughts?