Prescription for a tough spring opening

[tharder]

My pool was just closed (crystal clear). I had just finally won a 2 month battle of new equipment problems combined with a pool that just would not clear. I installed a Pentair Quad DE 100, a new Pentair MasterTemp heater, IC40 Chlorine generator (the cell is plumbed but not installed, I'll do that in the spring) and all new Jandy Valves. My pump is a Pentair WhisperFlo. Complete new 2" PVC above the pool equipment cement deck.

Unfortunately, I was sold the wrong multi-port valve and it took me blowing out 2 sets of filter cartridges before I sought help from Pentair. I ended up having to take all of my work apart and re-install most everything with a new valve. Not fun...everything went the opposite direction. Nothing like throwing away a couple hundred of perfectly good plumbing parts and a valve.

Once everything was correctly installed the war on water began. I had 10 lbs of DE blasted back into the pool each time the cartridges blew out. On top of that the water was an ailing green. I had been recirculating the whole time we were sorting out the Valve problem. I was using skimmer pucks to try to keep some chlorine in the pool until the equipment was remedied. Let's just say I'm not too happy with the the online retailer I used. I should have known, and checked the part numbers.

It took me about 5 days to clear the water once all the equipment was operational. 1 quart of Polyquats. 2 boxes of Borax (to get to 7.4 ph). About 4 lbs of Baking Soda to get the Alkalinity up to about 80-90. Then 6 gallons of cheap Menards chlorine pool shock (15% - $2.95 Gal.). Its just concentrated bleach.

When it went clear I vacuumed everything to waste. DE gone...Algae gone. I've never seen the pool so clear and clean. Ready to close. So, there is the "happy" ending. The problem? Just before the pool was closed, I finally tested for my CYA levels. It tested at well over 100. I hadn't come here until the pool was closed. In fact all seemed well until I re-visited this forum and started to study the CYA problems. I'm also wondering about my Regent's freshness. They're 2 years old. I haven't bothered to re-test because I can't do anything until spring.

Now I'm quite concerned with the opening I'll be facing next spring. The pool is now drained down to below my returns. So that's a good 1 1/2 - 2' of the water removed. The pool is Vinyl. By the time it was closed had received 2 full doses of polyquats (1 by me, then one by the closing guys) in a 10 day span. I'm not sure this is too good.

My question is; is there anything I can do to mitigate the potential green mess I could face in the spring? It's been closed for 5 days. Keep in mind, it's cold in Minnesota, but I just pulled the corner of my mesh cover to examine the water...still super clear.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I haven't tested the water since it's been closed. There's nothing I can do about it now. Still I'm hoping there might be some pro-active way I can approach the spring. Ben...it's been awhile, I hope you're well. Tom

[Watermom]

What was the chlorine level when you closed? I don't think there is really anything to do at this point, but do try and open as early as you can in the spring. What kind of test kit are you using? If you don't have a Taylor K-2006, order one over the winter from the testkit link in my signature so you'll have it upon opening. Or if you do have the good kit, order some fresh reagents.

[tharder]

Thanks Watermom. I entered all that in the form when I registered (actually re-registered from years ago) so I didn't think it was necessary. Please accept my apologies. I've used the Taylor K-2006 since Ben stopped selling his kit. Once my pool went clear my last measurement on the chlorine level was 14 ppm. I added 2 additional gallons, ran it for 2 more days and it was closed (didn't test just prior to closing). I was completing final waste line plumbing, the EasyTouch and the gas connections to the heater. I was too busy vacuuming out all the DE and Algae on the last day.

I don't think it would do me much good to pull a sample now. The low last night was 24. The high today was maybe 40. The pool is totally clear of leaves except what might have snuck under the cover. Cold water holds high chlorine values quite well and tends to stay very clear with little attendance. I'd guess, especially with all of that stabilizer in there.

The last few days prior to closing it was all I could do to keep it clear of leaves. The quicker they're out the fewer contaminants in the water. I usually don't close this late. Right in the meat of the tree shed. I'm surrounded by oaks, hard maples and silver maples.

I'm curious...why open as early as I can? I know I'll likely lose some CYA by next spring, but to bring it down below 100, just don't know. But, what will opening the pool early as possible do for me? To get on top of the values before the water warms?

Thanks...Tom

[Watermom]

I didn't check the pool chart before I responded to your last post. Sorry 'bout that! Regarding opening --- we see many pools where the CYA biodegrades over the winter and leaves you with a pool full of ammonia as a result. This can cause a HUGE chlorine demand where it takes tons of bleach before you can hold any chlorine in the pool. This can happen in any pool but especially when your CYA is as high as you report yours to be, if it does happen, it is especially a problem to clear up. Who knows how far over 100 your CYA actually is? By the way, how did it get so high?

[tharder]

I don't know precisely how high it is. And, as Ben has written in other threads, it is probably one of the worst (or most difficult) tests to interpret in the kit. I completely agree. I've watched the Taylor video to check my assessment but to know exactly when the black dot disappears I find somewhat subjective. I performed the test several times just to be sure and I believe the level was about a 1/16th" below the 100 mark. I also question my testing a bit considering how little bleach it took to clear the pool. I realize my bleach strong but it only took 3 gallons. I find that at least somewhat encouraging.

The way it got so high was that I was using dichlor (from Sam's Club) to shock it. I, for some knucklehead reason, thought my granular was "unstabilized". That combined with the use of skimmer pucks while I was servicing the system combined for a problematic outcome. Personally, I find liquid chlorine (or bleach) a pain. Six back surgeries and a shoulder reconstruction means I generally prefer to avoid such weight. I'd prefer a granular but I don't care for Cal Hyp because of how it dissolves. Since I've found this high test Hypochlorite it takes far fewer gallons to do the job and it's cheap. As a result it is, and will be, my chlorine of choice.

I also believe there is a lesser demand in the cold north. Colder temps inhibit algae establishment and proliferation. I could be wrong but it's a pretty short season compared to the south.

Thoughts?