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Thread: Pump replacement problems

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  1. #1
    c130jake Guest

    Default Re: Pump replacement problems

    Thanks, I was wondering if it will effect the pump operation or the filter. I guess I will spend tomorrow replumbing. Should I get rid of the puck chlorinator that is inline with the return? I think I will remove the heater for now and add one back in if needed. (97 in Minneapolis today)
    Thanks!

  2. #2
    gregugadawg Guest

    Default Re: Pump replacement problems

    I can't but hopefully you plumbed that swg after the heater. As far as the automatic chlorinator, if it still works I would leave it plumbed in. This site doesn't recommend using the tablets but say your your swg failed and you were opposed to using the bleach which you shouldn't be then you could use the automatic as back up, otherwise you can remove it and fill the hole with a 1/4in plug or just redo the pvc while you do the rest. You can always add a bypass on the heater which is a decent idea to do anyways instead of totally cutting it out. Unless it is no good and you just wanna get rid of it.

  3. #3
    duraleigh Guest

    Default Re: Pump replacement problems

    Hi, Jake,

    Reading "between the lines" of your post, I think you may be answering your own question. It sounds like you'd like to redo the whole thing.....I would agree.

    You've got some pretty tight spots there and the "patch" to get up and running will be awkard looking and complex to deal with.

    All pvc work seems to me to be a series of compromises...trying to get the fewest turns, largest pipe, etc.

    The chlorinator and heater is your choice. I would take them out trying to leave enough room (or a bypass) for future additions with straight line pipe.

    It looks like you've got 3 - 1.5 inch suction lines from the pool. If you could manifold those together and then go into the pump with a 2" line, that would be a very adequate suction side.

    All the 2" plumbing that you use is somewhat (but not hugely) helpful in reducing your total head. That said, I have found 2" MUCH more difficult to install in limited spacing.....1.5" is much less space consuming. As I said earlier........compromises, compromises.

  4. #4
    c130jake Guest

    Default Re: Pump replacement problems

    Appreciate the advice,

    I guess I will honor my fallen comrads by gluing up PVC today. Thanks!

  5. #5
    c130jake Guest

    Default Re: Pump replacement problems

    Got the pump connected, the heater removed, and am back in business sort of....I had to use a hose clamp to connect the pump outlet to the slide valve input. Seems the previous owner had a 2-1.5 restrictor glued in then sawed off. I guess I have to bite the bullet and get a new slide valve so I can make a permanent connection to the pump. The pump works great....much more flow than the old noisy Pac Fab. My sand filter reads about 8 psi higher and the return flow to the pool is much higher. I can finally use my Barracuda G4 with the floor drain operating and the other skimmer open half way.

    Jake

    PS dont forget to mark your PVC after dry fit so your glue the joints in the right direction

  6. #6
    duraleigh Guest

    Default Re: Pump replacement problems

    Hi, Jake,

    Wow!! Fast!! That would've taken me all day and many adult beverages just to plan it. Then another day shopping at Home Depot, etc., etc.

    Good work...I'm glad you did it and I know you are.

  7. #7
    c130jake Guest

    Default Re: Pump replacement problems

    Now I need to find a slide valve setup that will fit my 15+ year old sand filter.

    Later,

    Jake

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