Pump replacement problems

[c130jake]

Hi, I just got my 1hp Wisperflo and disconnected the very old and dying 1hp Pac-Fab pump.(>15 yo and rebuilt at least once) The new pump has 2" fittings and is about three inches taller than the old pump and I can't fit it to the old PacFab sand filter and slide valve connections without lifting it up about 3-5 inches and reducing it to 1.5 inch. (the filter and pump are mounted on a fiberglass unit with a circular stand for the filter) The plumbing is 1.5inch old sched 40 PVC. The return and multiport are 1.5 inch but the old filter has 2 inch fittings. The Heater is corroded and dead but not leaking yet and is also 1.5 inch plumbing. I think I need to just re-plumb the whole mess. The back flush slide valve is 2" and connected to the sand filter but has glued in 2-1.5 inch reducers. Should I bite the bullet and redo the whole mess? Are there any problems going from a 2 inch pump outlet to 1.5 inch lines. Do I make what I can 2 inch? If I get a new heater, are they usually 1.5 or two inch plumbing? Are there any good do-it-yourself web sites for replumbing a pool? The sand filter is an old 2.7 square footer but seemed to work well. Just put new sand in for this year.
I will try to attach a pic to show you what I mean. There is also an old inline chlorinator that could go away and my new SWG.....I need to get the water moving again...

[gregugadawg]

if you wanna replumb it you can but at somepoint you are going to have to reduce to 1.5 cause that is what goes to the pool most likely. Most pool fittings on equipment are going to be 2 inch, heaters pumps filters etc.

[c130jake]

Thanks, I was wondering if it will effect the pump operation or the filter. I guess I will spend tomorrow replumbing. Should I get rid of the puck chlorinator that is inline with the return? I think I will remove the heater for now and add one back in if needed. (97 in Minneapolis today)
Thanks!

[gregugadawg]

I can't but hopefully you plumbed that swg after the heater. As far as the automatic chlorinator, if it still works I would leave it plumbed in. This site doesn't recommend using the tablets but say your your swg failed and you were opposed to using the bleach which you shouldn't be then you could use the automatic as back up, otherwise you can remove it and fill the hole with a 1/4in plug or just redo the pvc while you do the rest. You can always add a bypass on the heater which is a decent idea to do anyways instead of totally cutting it out. Unless it is no good and you just wanna get rid of it.

[duraleigh]

Hi, Jake,

Reading "between the lines" of your post, I think you may be answering your own question. It sounds like you'd like to redo the whole thing.....I would agree.

You've got some pretty tight spots there and the "patch" to get up and running will be awkard looking and complex to deal with.

All pvc work seems to me to be a series of compromises...trying to get the fewest turns, largest pipe, etc.

The chlorinator and heater is your choice. I would take them out trying to leave enough room (or a bypass) for future additions with straight line pipe.

It looks like you've got 3 - 1.5 inch suction lines from the pool. If you could manifold those together and then go into the pump with a 2" line, that would be a very adequate suction side.

All the 2" plumbing that you use is somewhat (but not hugely) helpful in reducing your total head. That said, I have found 2" MUCH more difficult to install in limited spacing.....1.5" is much less space consuming. As I said earlier........compromises, compromises.

[c130jake]

Appreciate the advice,

I guess I will honor my fallen comrads by gluing up PVC today. Thanks!