I end up needing a dose about every two or three weeks.
I end up needing a dose about every two or three weeks.
rectangle 11.5K gal IG concrete pool;; 125sf cartridge filter; 2hp 1 speed pump; K-2006, k-1766; PF:10
22'x40' Grecian Lazy L 20K gal IG vinyl pool; Aqua Rite SWCG T15 cell; Hayward Pro Grid 6020 DE filter; Hayward Superpump 1hp pump; 12 hrs; Taylor K-2006; city; PF:6
The other part of the pH puzzle is to maintain the CYA at the manufacturer's recommended maximum (usually 80 or 100 ppm) and adjust cell output to maintain the FC at 5% of the CYA (or slightly higher for high usage pools or pools without 50 ppm borate). The explanation is somewhat complicated but this will also indirectly slow the pH rise and increase the pH stability.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
To cut the Gordian Knot there's a very simple way to steadily add acid to your pool, assuming your CYA isn't too high, or is even low:
Just load a floating chlorine dispenser with Tri-Chlor tabs.
Tri-Chlor is VERY acidic and will lower your pH or fight the raising of it by your SWCG. It's an effective and far cheaper solution. I've come home from vacations with my pH TOO low from the floaters (oops!).
Carl
Since I don't have an SWCG I don't "feel your pain"
Seriously, if you have to come up with an automated acid-feeding system perhaps just tri-chlor tabs are enough, certainly easy to set up and replenish. I presume the SWCG will produce less chlorine to compensate.
Of course, the Tri-Chlor will run your CYA levels up.
Carl
I expect once he gets the levels right (including borates) it will not really be an issue. I bet a floater would require maintenance more often than he will have to add acid; although I'm guessing since I've never used a floater.
rectangle 11.5K gal IG concrete pool;; 125sf cartridge filter; 2hp 1 speed pump; K-2006, k-1766; PF:10
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